Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TABLE SCRAPS FROM HEAVEN
Writer Darra Goldstein describes the former Soviet republic of Georgia as 'a land
blessed by Heaven's table scraps'. Short of Heaven itself, Moscow is the best place
outside the Caucasus to sample this rich, spicy cuisine.
The fertile region - wedged between East and West - has long been the benefi-
ciary and victim of merchants and raiders passing through. These influences are
evident in Georgian cooking, which shows glimpses of Mediterranean and Middle
Eastern flavours. But the truly Georgian elements - the differences - are what make
this cuisine so delectable. Most meat and vegetable dishes use ground walnuts or
walnut oil as an integral ingredient, yielding a distinctive, nutty flavour. Also charac-
teristic of Georgian cuisine is the spice mixture khmeli-suneli,which combines cori-
ander, garlic, chillies, pepper and savory with a saffron substitute made from dried
marigold petals.
Georgian chefs love to prepare food over an open flame, and grilled meats are
among the tastiest items on any Georgian menu. Herbs such as coriander, dill and
parsley are often served fresh, with no preparation or sauce, as a palate-cleansing
counterpoint to rich dishes. Grapes and pomegranates show up not only as desserts,
but also as tart complements to roasted meats.
The most beloved item on the Georgian menu is undoubtedly khachapuri,a rich,
cheesy bread that is made with circles of fresh dough cooked with sour, salty sulu-
gunicheese. Sometimes it is topped with a raw egg in the crater.
Around Moscow, there are scores of Georgian restaurants in all price ranges.
Sample this delicious food now; you may not have another chance until you get to
Tbilisi.
CREATIVE CUISINE
Nowadays, the most exciting trend in Moscow cuisine is the emergence of
avtorskaya
kukhnya,
('author cuisine'). As the name implies, young chefs are creating their own brands
of cooking, incorporating the best of local and international elements. Seasonal menus high-
light local ingredients. But cooking techniques, food preparations and flavours are adapted
from all over the world, resulting in menus that are innovative, unique - and delightfully de-
licious.
This fresh take on cooking is on full display at the annual
Omnivore Festival
(
www.omnivore-moscow.ru
), which is held over five days in March, with master classes,
taste testing, eating and drinking, culminating with a giant dinner party.
