Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A DETOUR
BOGOLYUBOVO
Tourists and pilgrims all flock to Bogolyubovo, just 12km northeast of Vladimir, to visit
a small 12th-century church standing amidst a flower-covered floodplain. The
Church
of the Intercession on the Nerl
(
10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
is the golden standard of Russian
architecture.
Apart from ideal proportions, its beauty lies in a brilliantly chosen waterside location
(floods aside) and the sparing use of delicate carving. Legend has it that Prince Andrei
Bogolyubsky had the church built in memory of his favourite son, Izyaslav, who was
killed in battle against the Bulgars. King David sits at the top of three facades, the
birds and beasts entranced by his music. The interior has more carvings, including 20
pairs of lions. If the church is closed (from October to April the opening hours are
more sporadic), try asking at the house behind.
To reach this famous church, get bus 152 from the Golden Gate or Sobornaya pl in
Vladimir and get off by the hard-to-miss Bogolyubsky Monastery, which contains rem-
nants of Prince Andrei's palace in the premises. Walk down Vokzalnaya ul, immedi-
ately east of the monastery. At the end of the street, cross the railroad tracks and fol-
low the cobblestone path across the field. You can catch a ride in a horse-drawn car-
riage for R250 per person (two person minimum).
Suzdal
Explore
The Golden Ring comes with a diamond, and that diamond is Suzdal (). If you have time to
visit only one place near Moscow, come here - even though everyone else will do the same.
The place remains largely as it did as ages ago - its cute wooden cottages mingle with
golden cupolas that reflect in the river, which meanders through gentle hills and flower-
filled meadows.
Spend a morning exploring the Kremlin, shopping in Market Sq and admiring the rural
views over the Klyazma River. In the afternoon, investigate the Saviour Monastery of St Eu-
thymius. Along the way, you'll pass dozens of exquisite churches, colourful log cabins and
other photogenic scenes. If you have the time or inclination, the surrounding countryside is
a spectacular place for cycling or horse riding.
