Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DARK TIMES ENLIGHTENED
In September 2011 Vladimir Putin decided to run for a third presidential term; mean-
while, many Muscovites decided they had had enough of Putin. Later that year, suspi-
cions of a rigged parliamentary election prompted a series of demonstrations and
marches, mostly held on Bolotnaya ploshchad. The protests were peaceful and good-
natured, with participants bearing funny posters, such as the one reading 'We are
146%' (both a nod to the Occupy NY slogan, and a reference to the fact that at one
point during the election coverage, state TV showed a digram indicating Putin's party
had 146% of the vote).
Young, middle-class urbanites (who are often referred to as khipstery- hipsters),
were in the lead, full of bright ideas. The desire to turn Moscow into a more liveable
and modern city was high on their agenda, although their main concern was for fair
elections.
On 6 May 2012 - the eve of Putin's inauguration - a protest march on Bolotnaya
was brutally dispersed in what marked the start of a wave of repression. Dozens of
rank and file activists ended up in prison on seemingly dubious charges.
But with the whip, came the carrot. Seizing the opposition activists' agenda, Mo-
scow mayor Sergei Sobyanin embarked on an ambitious program to turn the city into
a modern European capital. Vice-mayor Sergei Kapkov led the drive. The former right-
hand man of oligarch Roman Abramovich, was responsible for the incredible trans-
formation of Gorky Park into a modern and attractive space. His enlightened ap-
proach eventually spread to all of Moscow's parks, while the city authorities continued
As gentrification engulfed the city, the anti-Putin protests subsided. Moscow hip-
sters did sympathize with Ukrainian protesters who toppled president Viktor Ya-
nukovych. But the standoff in Kiev was too long, too nervous and too violent for their
tastes. As the political regime became more oppressive, they retreated back into the
golden cage of art lectures at Strelka, Vinzavod exhibitions and petanque games at
Gorky Park. The feeling that this situation cannot last for long is widespread; many
young, cultured Muscovites fear they will eventually be chased out of their hipster
Eden.
