Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Jaffna
021 / Population 116,000
Slowly but surely reemerging as a bastion of Hindu tradition, art and creative culture,
Jaffna is once again welcoming visitors and looking to rise again. It's an intriguing, unim-
posing and mostly untouristed place that's a thoroughly rewarding place to invest a few
days discovering Sri Lankan Tamil culture.
Inescapably, decades of war, emigration, embargoes and loss of life and property have
deeply affected this historic Tamil town. If you've just arrived from the south, the impact
of all this is all too evident, with ruined homes, bombed churches, and civic buildings
pockmarked by bullets and shrapnel very much part of the scene. Around one in five of the
city's structures suffered war damage. The military retain a strong presence and locals
complain about harassment and infringement of property as well as livelihood. Peace and
reconciliation are still works in progress.
As refugees and exiles return to rebuild the city, confidence and finance is returning.
The city is surprisingly green and leafy, with attractive palm-shaded colonial-era suburbs
and beautiful temples and churches. Physically, new structures (including the city's first
shopping mall) and upgraded road, rail and air connections are inspiring optimism. But
you'll appreciate Jaffna more for its insights into the Tamil people and their struggle than
for any specific points of interest.
The city is also an ideal base for forays to the idyllic islands just to the west, and trips
along the coastline and lagoons of the surrounding peninsula.
