Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
NORTH OF NILAVELI
The beautiful B424 coastline road north of Nilaveli follows the shore, with the ocean on
one side and lagoons inland. It's a great day out on a motorbike, or for those with the lung
power, a bicycle (it's very flat). Public transport is limited on this route.
Heading north there's little of interest for the first six kilometres, but after you cross the
river estuary at Kumpurupiddi the road runs very close to the beach, and then skirts a
huge shallow lagoon on the west. A system of dykes and channels here enables sea water
to be pumped into
salt pans
and salt to be harvested in the dry season. Rows and rows of
identical houses are grouped around these salt flats, constructed by Indian charities to
house communities hit by the tsunami and civil war.
Continuing north, you'll find the intriguing (signposted) archaeological site of
Kuchchaveli
at the Km 34 marker on the highway. Occupying a rocky point that juts into
the Indian Ocean are the modest remains of a brick stupa. From the stupa's elevated pos-
ition there are spectacular views over a turquoise sea, across the white foam of the
rollers, with stunning sandy beaches to the north and south. The land here is controlled
by the Navy but open to the public, and the two or three officers based at this lonely spot
are usually very welcoming.
Around the Km 40 post the road traverses another lovely river estuary, the sandy
shoreline dotted with colourful fishing boats. Then you pass through an area of dense
mangrove forests, home to monitor lizards and prolific birdlife (including herons, storks
and waders) before reaching an army checkpoint. From here it's a short trip to the isol-
ated but friendly village of
Pulmoddai
at Km 54, which sits just inland from the Kokkilai
Lagoon, an important bird sanctuary. Here the
Asam Hotel
(meals Rs 150-250) is your best
bet for lunch, a popular place with rice and curry and drinks.
Buses (Rs 75, 1½ hours, six daily) connect Pulmoddai with Trincomalee, passing
through Nilaveli and Uppuveli en route. Services (Rs 88, two hours, three daily) also head
to Mullaitivu, opening up an intriguing route to the north.
