The East - Sri Lanka - page 551

Kumana National Park & Kumana Reserve
This 357-sq-km park ( 063-363 5867;adult US$12, plus per jeep Rs 250, service charge per
group US$8, VAT 12%; 6am-6.30pm) , often still referred to by its old name, Yala East, is
much less frequently visited than its busy neighbour, Yala National Park. Consequently, it's
a far less 'zoolike' experience and it never feels too crowded here, even during high sea-
son. Yes, the density of animals is lower but it's not rare to spot a leopard, along with ele-
phants, crocodiles and turtles, white cobras, wild buffalo and tons of birds. About a dozen
bears live in the park, but they're rarely seen.
The park's best-known feature is the 200-hectare Kumana bird reserve , an ornitholo-
gically rich mangrove swamp 22km beyond Okanda. May to June is nesting season. There
have been sightings of Sri Lanka's very rare black-necked stork, but more commonly spot-
ted, even outside the bird reserve, are Malabar pied hornbills, green bee-eaters, blade-
headed orioles and painted storks, among others. Watchtowers provide a terrific perspect-
ive for birdwatchers. Visitors regularly report seeing dozens of peacocks here.
Entry fees are myriad, and can really add up. A mandatory guide (who may not speak
English) accompanies each vehicle. Guesthouses in Arugam Bay can help arrange for a
jeep and driver; the going rate is around Rs 10,000 per day. (It's not as expensive as it
seems given the park's rough roads.) Guide Siddiq ( 077 481 7774) gets rave reviews for
animal-spotting.
You can arrange camping trips within the park, which allow you to watch animals at
dusk and dawn - the two best times. For this, the algorithm becomes even more complic-
ated: US$20 per person, US$27 per group, Rs 250 per jeep, plus 12% tax.
Drivers in Arugam Bay charge US$300 for two people, which includes the transport,
evening and morning safaris, equipment and meals. Aliya ( www.aliyasafari.com ) , very pro-
fessional safari specialists based near Buttala, are strongly recommended.
Ampara
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Laid-back Ampara sits in the midst of countryside dappled with paddy fields, lakes and
palm groves. Though the town itself won't hold you, the area has a couple of low-key
sights.