Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE LONG WALK TO KATARAGAMA
Forty-five days before the annual Kataragama festival starts on the Esalapoya(full moon)
in July, a group of Kataragama devotees start walking the length of Sri Lanka for the Pada
Yatra pilgrimage. Seeking spiritual development, the pilgrims believe they are walking in
the steps of the god Kataragama (also known as Murugan) and the Veddahs, who made
the first group pilgrimage on this route.
The route follows the east coast from the Jaffna Peninsula, via Trincomalee and Battic-
aloa to Okanda, then through Yala National Park to Kataragama. It's an arduous trip, and
the pilgrims rely on the hospitality of the communities and temples they pass for their
food and lodging. Although often interrupted during the war years, the walk is now hugely
popular.
Pilgrims arrive in Kataragama just before the festival's feverish activity. Elephants
parade, drummers drum. Vows are made and favours sought by devotees, who demon-
strate their sincerity by performing extraordinary acts of penance and self-mortification
on one particular night: some swing from hooks that pierce their skin; others roll half-na-
ked over the hot sands near the temple. A few perform the act of walking on beds of red-
hot cinders - treading the flowers, as it's called. The fire walkers fast, meditate and pray,
bathe in Menik Ganga (Menik River) and then worship at Maha Devale before facing their
ordeal. Then, fortified by their faith, they step out onto the glowing path while the audien-
ce cries out encouragement.
The festival officially ends with a water-cutting ceremony (said to bring rain for the har-
vest) in Menik Ganga.
Information
You'll find ATMs in the centre along Tissa Rd.
Getting There & Away
There are frequent buses to Tissamaharama (Rs 37, 30 minutes). Should you arrive by car,
you'll set off frenzied competition from the owners of various snack, offering, toy and gar-
ish souvenir stands who will try to get you to park on their patch in the hope you'll buy
something.
