The South - Sri Lanka - page 305

Yala combines a strict nature reserve with a national park, bringing the total protected area
to 1268 sq km of scrub, light forest, grassy plains and brackish lagoons. It's divided into
five blocks, with the most visited being Block I (141 sq km). Also known as Yala West,
this block was originally a reserve for hunters, but was given over to conservation in 1938.
It's the closest to Tissa.
With around 25 leopards thought to be present in Block I alone, Yala is considered one
of the world's best parks for spotting these big cats. Panthera pardus kotiya, the subspe-
cies you may well see, is unique to Sri Lanka. The best time to spot leopards is February to
June or July, when the water levels in the park are low.
The park's estimated 300 elephants can be more elusive, although some regularly appear
in the most visited areas. Other animals of note include the shaggy-coated sloth bear and
fox-like jackals. Sambars, spotted deer, boars, crocodiles, buffaloes, mongooses and mon-
keys are also here along with startlingly large crocodiles.
Over 200 species of birds have been recorded at Yala, many of which are visitors escap-
ing the northern winter, such as white-winged black terns, curlews and pintails. Locals in-
clude jungle fowl, hornbills, orioles and peacocks by the bucketload.
Despite the large quantity of wildlife, the light forest can make spotting animals quite
hard; however, small grassy clearings and lots of waterholes offer good opportunities. The
end of the dry season (March to April) is the best time to visit, as during and shortly after
the rains the animals disperse over a wide area.
As well as herds of wildlife, Yala contains the remains of a once-thriving human com-
munity. A monastic settlement, Situlpahuwa , appears to have housed 12,000 inhabitants.
Now restored, it's an important pilgrimage site. A 1st-century BC vihara (Buddhist com-
plex), Magul Maha Vihara , and a 2nd-century BC chetiya (Buddhist shrine), Akasa
Chetiya , point to a well-established community, believed to have been part of the ancient
Ruhunu kingdom.
Yala is a very popular park: there were over 330,000 visitors in 2013, a number that
grows each year. At times jeeps can mimic a pack of jackals in their pursuit of wildlife. It's
a good idea to discuss with your driver and/or guide where you can go to get away from
the human herd. Be sure, however, to make time for the park's visitor centre at the west-
ern entrance. It has excellent displays about the park and a good bookstore.