Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
16
Italy: A
16
Closer Look
THE CUISINE OF ITALY
by Bill Fink
Anyone looking for the quintessential Italian meal is likely to be disappointed.
Why? Because there's no such thing.
To be sure, there's plenty of Tuscan fare. And Neapolitan specialties are avail-
able across the land. Then, too, a hearty Umbrian soup is just the answer for a
cold winter night almost anywhere, while spaghetti
alla bolognese
is offered on
most of the country's menus. But Italian cuisine? You may as well request “Earth
Cuisine” or “The Table of the Northern Hemisphere.”
REGIONAL TASTES, NATIONAL FERVOR
Like the history of the Italian provinces that spawned it, Italian cuisine has a
highly regionalized, even localized, character. And these distinctions are serious.
Ranging from the selection of the ingredients to the method of preparation to the
ceremony of the meal, Italian dining could be considered the second major reli-
gion of Italy (after Roman Catholicism, and slightly ahead of soccer).
For the traveler, a chance to sample the regional cuisines of Italy can be the
highlight of any trip. The vast majority of Italian eateries are family-owned estab-
lishments, labors of love reflecting several generations of local learning and lore.
A dinner often turns into a multihour theater of courses accompanied by gossip,
people-watching, and a spirit of community seen only at, well, a Catholic Mass
or an AS Roma playoff match.
So how should you enter this culinary world? Open your mouth. Not just to
eat but to ask your tour guide, your cab driver, and your magazine vendor where
the best place is to find a bite (though don't bother inquiring at high-end hotels—
they'll point you to the most touristy place in town). Italians always have an opin-
ion about where and what to eat. This guide recommends the most local
trattorie,
osterie,
and
ristoranti
at which a traveler can experience regional specialties in a
homey atmosphere. Seek them out.
After entering an Italian restaurant, your job is not yet done. Keep talking (or
gesturing, depending on mutual linguistic ability). Ask about the specialty of the
house
(specialità della casa),
or the seasonal specialty
(specialità della stagione).
Ask
for help interpreting the menu—waiters and owners usually enjoy showing off
their knowledge of food (plus it's a good way to get some free samples). Try to
dine with friends so you can order several courses and share. But if you're alone,
eat up--there's plenty of hiking to be done tomorrow.
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