Sicily - Italy - page 569

For late-night snacks and bar food, try Guliven's (Via Crociferi, 69; % 095-
311192), which offers the type of memorable experience you hope for. The out-
door tables butt up against the steps to the nearby church, on which live music,
poetry reading, and other events are held throughout the year. The specialties here
are dinner salads, cheese and salami plates, and stuffed sandwiches served with
cold white wine.

€

TAORMINA
Taormina is the Positano of Sicily. It offers similarly spectacular sweeping views
from its terraced perch above the sea, and is laced with wonderfully decadent
romantic hotels and restaurants, giving it a general feel of luxury. But, just like
Positano, it's a gorgeous resort town that has priced itself out of the average
tourist's pocketbook. If Ragusa is the most authentic of Sicily's villages, Taormina
is the least. English is spoken everywhere here, and tour buses have their own
parking lot below the city. But it's still a worthwhile stop on a drive along the
coast, or as a day trip from either Siracusa or Palermo to see the Teatro Greco
(Greek Theater), and to walk and shop along its narrow main street. The city's
Teatro Greco

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(Via Teatro Greco; % 0942-232220; adults € 4.50, seniors and
students € 2; summer daily 9am-7pm, Nov-Mar until 4:30pm) shouldn't be missed.
It was so perfectly built in 3 B . C . that you can still sit in the spectator seats and
watch the natural dialogue of sea and sky. Colonnades added by the Romans in
A . D . 2 frame the changing set, and even now the local community theater per-
forms here with no man-made props.
The rest of Taormina can be enjoyed by simply walking along the main streets,
which are lined with gift shops, some reasonably priced. You can see Mt. Etna
from many vistas, and there are churches like the baroque Chiesa San Giuseppe
and the 13th-century cathedral that are worth a look. In summer you can also go
down to the sea and waste a glorious day or two hanging out on the beaches. A
12th-century clock tower at the entrance of the Borgo Medievale marks the
entrance to the city's old town. For even better views of the seaside below, climb
the Monte Tauro and gaze out over the Saracen castle ruins.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Staying in Taormina is not cheap, especially when you consider the inflated restau-
rant prices that are practically unavoidable. A few nicely priced hotels are available,
but it's essential to book early because these are the fastest to go.

€€ Hotel La Campanella (Via Circonvallazione, 3; % 0942-23381; no credit
cards) is a great choice if you're fit—there are over 100 steps from the street to the
entrance of this tiny 12-room hotel, and at this price, just 80 for a double, you'll

have to lug your bags up yourself. The rooms are simple but clean, and you can
enjoy breakfast and a drink on the hotel's lush rooftop garden with views of the
sea. The center of town is about 10 minutes away on foot, but the walk is pictur-
esque, passing through a residential district.
€€ The Hotel Condor (Via Dietro Cappuccini, 25; % 0942-23124; no credit
cards) is another gem among the sparkling jewels of Taormina. It's above the town
but the 10-minute walk to the main street is an easy jaunt on steps and sidewalks

€