Sicily - Italy - page 566

A close second to the Domus Mariae is the slightly cheaper Hotel Gutkowski
(Lungomare Vittorini, 26; % 0931-465861; www.guthotel.it), in a light blue
building that often blends perfectly with the sky outside, and a modern, minimal-
ist decor that sometimes feels a little out of sync with this ancient town. Water
pressure is a big problem here, and the bathrooms are tiny, even by Italian stan-
dards. Never mind--doubles are a reasonable € 90, and the rooms, though some-
what bare, are large.
€ La Siciliana (Via Savoia, 17; % 0931-68944) is known for its good food and
reasonable prices. Sit as a sidewalk table, if you're lucky enough to get one, or
inside, near a wood-burning pizza oven. More ambitious meals might include
grilled swordfish with herbs, or spaghetti alla Norma with eggplant. Main courses
are € 6 to € 14.

€€

Another option is Minosse di Visetti (Via Mirabella, 6; % 0931-
66366), on an obscure alleyway in the center of town. Go for the plate of fresh
mussels with cherry tomatoes, or the zuppe di pesce, one of the best-tasting fish
soups in town. Main courses are about € 9.80 to € 19.
ATTRACTIONS IN ORTYGIA
I suggest that you cross the bridge onto the island, and start walking. Go where
your heart and mind lead you; it's too small an area, bordered by the sea, for you
to get lost. Along the way you'll pass the major points of interest, including the
Piazza del Duomo, one of the loveliest squares in Italy, bordered by baroque-
faced palaces. Looming high above the square is the Cathedral

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(daily
8am-noon and 4-7pm), the former Greek Temple of Athena, with its 5th-century
Doric columns providing the main support and needed balance against the gaudy
baroque shell. The main altar is another surviving remnant from the Greeks, who
first settled this island. The original temple was topped with a shiny golden statue
of Athena that was visible from the sea and beckoned sailors to the island. Across
from the cathedral is the Palazzo Municipale, which was built in 1629 by Juan
Vermexio. His signature carving of a lizard can still be seen on the left-hand side.
Below this palace are the remains of an Ionic temple that can be visited by asking
the doorman inside. On the cathedral's southern flank is the Palazzo
Arcivescovile, which holds a library of 13th-century documents. On the north-
west side of the piazza is the striking Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco, with its
lovely courtyard. On the southwest side is the Chiesa di Santa Lucia alla Badia.
As you continue through the twisting streets of Ortygia, you'll stumble upon
the Fontana Aretusa, a rare freshwater fountain that once served as the city's main
water supply. During the summer, migratory ducks paddle around the fountain.
Smart cafes line the surrounding sidewalks, where teens gather until late in the
evening. Deeper into the heart of the town, you'll come to the Piazza Archimede,
with a fountain that seems to draw the crowds for the evening passeggiata.
Walking to the boardwalk that skirts the island, you'll pass the former Jewish
Ghetto and the recently unearthed Jewish Miqwe (Via GB Alagona, 52;
% 0931-22255; € 5; daily 10am-7pm), consisting of three freshwater pools, used
for ritual bathing, and a private pool for the rabbi.