Sicily - Italy - page 564

a peek, but your real gratification will come from spending a few hours wander-
ing through the medieval streets of Ibla, below. The largest church, Basilica di
San Giorgio, on Piazza Duomo, is so ominously top-heavy that it's a bit unnerv-
ing to stand near it. Midway up the massive steps, look directly up at the statues,
which give the impression of movement—a trick that the famous architect
Rosario Gagliardi repeated across this province in the many churches he designed,
including the modest church of San Giuseppe.
Ragusa's whimsy continues all along its quaint streets. The Palazzo Arezzo,
just off the Piazza Duomo, is covered with hedgehog sculptures. Nearby, at the
Circolo di Conversazione, is the old haunt of Ragusa nobility, who came here to
gain inspiration from the statues--of Michelangelo, Galileo, Dante, and
Bellini--that still grace the somewhat faded interior.
As rich as the physical attributes of Ragusa seem, it's the people who make this
place so special. There is still a sense of nobility among those who live in Ibla. If
you take a leisurely lunch or morning coffee in the main Piazza Duomo square,
you're likely to see working-class men kissing their superiors' hands when they greet
them. The people here are welcoming to strangers and will go to great lengths to
explain what's worth seeing in their town. There's a gracious friendliness here that
could soon be spoiled by mass tourism, but for now few tour buses intrude on the
quiet, and you should come and enjoy the tranquillity while it lasts.
From Ragusa (or Siracusa, below) try to make a side trip to Modica, which is
a stunningly situated town that seems to spill into the valley from the top of two
high hills. A monstrous auto bridge cuts the valley view in half from below, but
does save hours in driving time by going over the valley rather than around it.
Like Ragusa, Modica is divided into upper and lower sections and has been a vic-
tim of natural disasters for centuries. You may not want to base yourself here, but
do stop by to see the glorious baroque Chiesa di San Giorgio in Modica Alta that
sits atop a 250-step stairway. Modica was known as the Venice of the south until
a devastating flood in 1902 wiped out the canals. The rivers have now been
diverted and the gaps filled with cobblestone streets, perfect for walking.
ACCOMMODATIONS & DINING
€€

Staying here is not easy because hotels are scarce and amenities are few and
far between. There's a perfect solution in the one-stop hotel and restaurant that
has evolved from a four-room bed-and-breakfast, and that has handled basically
all the city's visitors for decades. Il Barocco (Via Oranotrofio, 29; % 0932-663105;
www.ilbarocco.it) now offers lovely double rooms with original antiques, large
bathrooms, and sweeping views of the town or valley below from € 80. A suite
costs 100. The restaurant is a true find on the island, offering authentic south-

ern Sicilian cuisine like vermicelli with seppie and creative seafood dishes based on
the season for well under

€

10 a plate. There is even an ice-cream parlor with
freshly made flavors based only on seasonal fruits.

€

€

A much more spartan place to sleep--though it's great if you have kids--is the
tiny Le Fiorere

9

(Via Maria Paterno Arezzo, 104, corner of Piazza Duomo;
% 0932-621530; www.bblefioriere.it), which has two mini-apartments with
stoves and fridges for just € 30 low season, € 40 high season, including breakfast
and parking. The rooms are not swank, but they're the next best thing to living in