Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EGADI ISLANDS
A quick trip to one of the three islands that make up the Egadi archipelago is a
good way to round out your tour of this section of Sicily. Ferries run from Trapani
and Marsala, take about 10 to 20 minutes, and cost between
2.50 and
6,
depending on the season.
Levanzo is best known for its Grotta del Genovese with its cave etchings of
bison and deer--animals one doesn't automatically associate with Sicily. Visiting
the caves is an adventure unto itself because you must first locate the custodian,
Signor Natale Castiglione, who will either be at his souvenir shop just behind the
port or at % 339-7418800 (ncasti@tin.it). For 5.50 (by foot) or 12 (by boat),
he'll take you deep into the caves. You can try to find the caves yourself, but
they're not well marked and the trek with Mr. Castiglione is far more colorful.
For a taste of island wildlife, head to the car-free Marettimo and pick up a
local hiking map. This is also a good island for swimming, sunbathing, or fishing
(contact the San Giuseppe Association at % 0923-923290 ).
Farther out to sea is the largest of the islands, Pantelleria, which is just 80km
(50 miles), from the Tunisian coast. This island, a short flight from Palermo or a
4-hour ferry ride from Trapani, is hugely popular with wealthy Italians and for-
eign movie stars, but the real allure is its volcanic landscape. Near Montagna
Grande, the island's primary, 823m (2,743-ft.) volcano, are 24 red craters made
from red volcanic rock, which contrast dramatically with the black lava terrain.
Add to that lush vineyards and exotic plant life, like caper bushes, and you'll
understand Pantelleria's allure.
SELINUNTE
Like so many of the ancient ruins you see across Italy, Selinunte reminds me of
how fleeting empires can be, and how even the most magnificent buildings and
cities decay and disappear. One of the mightiest and most powerful of the Greek
outposts, Selinunte was founded in the 7th century B . C . by immigrants from
Syracuse who thrived in this coastal locale, building temple after temple as a thank
you to the gods for their generosity. The statues and friezes they created for these
temples now fill the museums in Palermo; once you've seen them, you'll want to
journey to their source. At the height of its glory, the ancient city had some
100,000 residents. The death blow came in 250 B . C ., when Carthage pillaged
Selinunte not once but twice. It was forgotten until the 16th century, when
Sicilians started to settle this area once again.
Getting There
Selinunte is 122km (76 miles) southwest of Palermo and 113km (70 miles) west
of Agrigento. If you're driving from Palermo or Agrigento, allow at least 2 hours.
The easiest way to get there without your own wheels is by train to Castelvetrano.
Shuttle buses for
2.50 (get your ticket first in the tabacchi inside the train sta-
tion) run half-hourly from the train station to the site.
Touring the Ruins
When you approach the archaeological grave-land, you'll be overwhelmed by its
haunting desolation. The ruins of the once-mighty temples, most of them built
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