Sicily - Italy - page 558

The most popular beaches are at Canneto, a 20-minute walk north of the town,
and Spiaggia Bianca, a bit farther north. This second beach was named for its
white sands, an anomaly on the islands, whose sands are mostly black.
Panarea is a ritzy resort island, complete with Greek-style whitewashed villas
and very expensive restaurants. Sleek yachts cater to movie stars and wannabes.
Paparazzi speedboats circle the islands like pesky mosquitoes. There's a fascinating
23-hut Bronze Age Village on the southern shore, but most of the best artifacts
are on display at the Archaeological Museum in Lipari. The island is busy in
August, and then sinks into a heavy lethargy for the rest of the year.
Unlike Vulcano and Lipari, Salina is wooded and speaks to visitors who love
the outdoors; hikes take you to the volcanic peaks of Fossa delle Felci and
Madonna Del Terzito. Religious pilgrims trek through the valley between the
two during the mid-August Feast of the Assumption (which can be a reason to
stay away at this time). The island produces vegetables, citrus, and Malvasia wine.
Stromboli is best at night, when the fireworks from the very active volcano
light up the night sky and make the water look like a blazing pool. Almost every-
thing on this island revolves around the volcanic activity. There are a handful of
tour operators who specialize in guided visits to the volcano. My favorite is
Magmatrek (Via Vittorio Emanuele; % 090/986-5768; www.magmatrek.it), which
offers a marvelous 5-hour evening trek for € 22 (departs daily 4pm, Mar-June).
Vulcano, the archipelago's second largest island after Lipari, is fascinating if
you're into live volcanoes and inexpensive spa treatments. The Fossa di Vulcano
crater is a steamy reminder that this island is very much alive. The mud at the
Laghetto di Fanghi is therapeutic. Sulfur bath treatments are synonymous with
Vulcano for Italians who summer on Sicily. Access to the public mud baths is
€ 1.50, which includes entrance to the steaming pools and beach. Hotels along
the coast offer treatments, including massage and shower starting at around

35.
You may not want to stay overnight because the smell of sulfur can be overpow-
ering after a few hours.
Filicudi and Alicudi, two small, isolated islands, are perfect for nature lovers.
They're also great for tent campers and those who don't need amenities. If camp-
ing is not for you, this is a fine island to visit for an afternoon hike; just take a
ferry from one of the other islands.
ACCOMMODATIONS ON THE AEOLIAN ISLANDS
€ You can spend a lot of money to sleep on the Aeolian islands, and because it
can take a couple of hours to get here from the mainland, a day trip really isn't
advisable. The best deals are on Lipari, where you should get in touch with leg-
endary Diana Brown (Vico Himera, 3; % 090-9812584; www.dianabrown.it). She
has double rooms starting at € 40 and self-catering mini-apartments with kitch-
enettes starting at

€

40 per person. When her B&B is full, she'll go out of her way
to help you find something else.

€

If Diana can't help, try the Hotel Oriente (Via G Marconi, 35; % 090-
9811493; www.hotelorientelipari.com). Beds are on the small side, and the atmos-
phere borders on cluttered, with antique farm tools lining the white walls, but the
Oriente is cozy and inviting. The best part of the hotel is the garden and a staff
of locals who are intensely protective of their island, but generous with its secrets.

€€ - €€€