Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
she'll likely suggest the specialty
coniglio al vino bianco
(rabbit cooked in white
wine). It is almost impossible to find bastions like this tried-and-true trattoria in
the historical center, where an increasing number of restaurants cater to the trend-
setters. Don't miss it.
RESTAURANTS NEAR THE VATICAN
Across the river, into the area around the Vatican, dining is a mixed bag. By day,
the restaurants here cater to large groups that are moved through at lightning
speed. By night, the restaurants are inhabited primarily by priests and cardinals,
and, not surprisingly, eavesdropping Vatican journalists. The residential district of
Prati, near St. Peter's Square, is vibrant, and the dining choices here cater to the
area's international population.
€
Il Mozzicone
(Borgo Pio, 180;
%
06-6861500)
is a tiny little getaway just a
stone's throw from the Vatican City gates. There are no surprises on the menu
here, and you will almost always find the usual dishes like
fettuccini ragù
for €6
and tripe for €8, but considering its location, it is the best deal around. This
restaurant is miniscule, so book a table if you don't want to wait for one.
€€
Taverna Angelica
(Piazza A. Capponi, 6;
%
06-6874514)
is a standard
Vatican City-area trattoria specializing in fowl-based dishes like lentil soup with
pigeon breast for €10, and duck breast with balsamic vinegar for €15. This is a
popular spot for priests with higher budgets, and it's not uncommon to overhear
heated debates on church policy.
A RESTAURANT NEAR THE COLOSSEUM
€€
It's possible you will not have better seafood in Rome than at the appropri-
ately named
F.I.S.H.
(Via dei Serpenti, 16;
%
06-47824962; www.f-i-s-h.it).
The
menu is divided into Mediterranean, Asian, and oceanic categories, and it's about
the best ethnic food you can get in the city when it comes to sushi and
nasi goring.
But the Mediterranean menu is by far the most interesting, with the house dish
being
volcano di riso nero
—seafood cooked in a bed of mixed rice for €12. The
atmosphere in this restaurant is sleek and non-trattoria style.
WHY YOU'RE HERE: THE TOP SIGHTS
& ATTRACTIONS
If I were to describe each and every one of the really important historical sights,
structures, museums, exhibits, and attractions of Rome, I'd fill an entire book;
you could tour Rome for a year and still not experience everything worthwhile
and memorable. However, I've confined this chapter to 36 such places, and I've
preceded that discussion with recommendations on allocating your time, depend-
ing on the number of days you'll be in the Eternal City. Following that treatment
of the sights, I've dealt with nightlife and shopping, out-of-town excursions, and
other miscellaneous, but important, aspects of a trip to Rome.
