Sicily - Italy - page 552

Farther into the winding web of streets in La Kalsa is Sicily's most impressive
art museum, and one of the finest collections in Italy, the Galleria Regionale
Siciliana (Via Alloro, 4; % 091-6230011; € 4.50; Tues-Fri 9am-2pm,

Tues-Thurs also 3-8pm). The setting couldn't be more ideal: The 15th-century
Palazzo Abatellisis is a superb example of Catalonian-Gothic architecture—all
Spanish-style mullioned windows and narrowing towers. Though it was nearly
destroyed by bombs in World War II, it was tastefully restored in 1954 and has
housed this collection of sculpture and paintings, dating from the Middle Ages
through the 18th century, ever since. The inner courtyard is lined with rows of
marble sculptures from the Romanesque era through the 16th century. A closed
hall surrounding the courtyard houses wooden sculptures from the 12th to the
16th centuries and delicate stone statues from the 14th and 15th centuries. The
museum's prize work of art is the intricately detailed bust of Eleonora of Aragon,
created by Francesco Laurana in 1471 and widely considered to be his master-
piece. Farther along, the mural-size Triumph of Death fresco--painted in the 15th
century by an unknown artist, or, some believe, a collection of artists--depicts
Death as a fiendish fellow on horseback, shooting arrows at the local youth, who
dodge them and dart away. On the mezzanine you can sit and ponder this depic-
tion of death on a lone bench that hangs perilously close to the railing-free edge.
If you've got kids in tow, don't miss the Museo Internazionale delle
Marionette

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(Via Butera, 1; % 091-328060; www.museomarionettepalermo.it;
adults € 3, children € 1.50; Mon-Fri 9am-1pm and 4-7pm; Sat 9am-1pm), which
celebrates the art of puppetry, as much a part of the Sicilian life as sunshine. Here
you'll find over 3,000 puppets ranging from traditional Italian puppets from the
theaters of Naples and Catánia, to a small collection of international puppets
from China, India, Turkey, and Africa. Every Friday afternoon the curators hold
a show (check the website for schedules).
Not far from the puppet museum is Palermo's oldest tree, a 150-year-old tan-
gled ficus benjamin that reaches 25m (82 ft.) and covers the midsection of the
Giardino Garibaldi (Piazza Marina; free admission). This garden is a calm oasis in
the middle of an often overwhelmingly hectic city and a great spot to bring a pic-
nic lunch. The benches stay cool under the shade of the tree, even in the most
grueling heat.
Beyond the historical center, Palermo quickly becomes suburban, and tiny
boutiques are replaced with supermarket-style chain stores and old palazzi give
way to modern, post-war apartment blocks. There's not much to see or do in these
neighborhoods, and they should be avoided.
ACCOMMODATIONS BOTH STANDARD & NOT
The historical center is the most enjoyable place to stay in Palermo. Many of the
city's best-priced hotels are right around the Via Roma, between the train station
and the Quattro Canti. But there are two spots in particular that will give you a
better taste of local flavor than a standard hotel.
€ Staying at Giorgio's House (Via A. Mongitore; % 091-525057; www.giorgios
house.com) is a bit like finding that long-lost Sicilian cousin we all wish we had.
Giorgio will take care of everything, from picking you up at the airport to plan-
ning your itinerary. He'll take you around the city or highlight your map so you