Sicily - Italy - page 551

Gagini school. Also don't miss the Oratorio del Rosario di San Domenico (Via
dei Bambinai, 2; Mon-Fri 9am-1pm, Sat 2-5:30pm) and the Oratorio del Rosario
di Santa Zita (Via Valverde, 3; Mon-Fri 9am-1pm and 3-6pm, Sat 9am-1pm),
which sit just behind the church. Inside these marble chapels are some of
Palermo's finest stuccowork, done by Giacomo Serpotta, who labored from 1686
to 1718 to carve the dozens of cherubim who frolic on the altars, their faces eerily
lifelike. The Oratorio del Rosario di Santa Zita was damaged by heavy bombing
during World War II, and major works of art have not yet been restored.
Miraculously, these little angels survived, and are worth seeing. The oratories are
sometimes not open at the posted times, but ask inside the church and the custo-
dian will open the door for you. In the Oratorio del Rosario di San Domenico,
check out the columns to the right of the altar. The lizard is meant to depict
strength and courage. Above the altar is a cupola painted with gawking knights,
noble ladies, and young boys who seem to be peering down as you stare up.

LA KALSA Once plagued by poverty and its natural consequences, crime and
corruption, the district of La Kalsa was on the black list of most visitors for
decades. Mother Theresa even set up a mission here to help the city's poorest vic-
tims. But now, after several decades of revitalization, La Kalsa is one of the bright
spots of Palermo and home to some of its most compelling museums and
churches. Give yourself a few hours and start a thorough exploration of this dis-
trict at the Quattro Canti, with its web of streets winding around La Martorana
and Chiesa di San Cataldo

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(Piazza Bellini, 3; entrance to San Cataldo € 1;
Mon-Sat 8:30am-1pm and 3:30-5:30pm, closed Sun afternoon). These two
churches have teetered between Christian and Muslim worship for centuries and
today represent Palermo's unique, multilayered religious past. La Martorana, also
known as the Chiesa dell'Ammiraglio, was built by the Syrian Emir George of
Antioch in the 12th century as a mosque, though it was never used as one. Keen
eyesight—or better yet, good binoculars—will help you see the Arabic lettering
repeating “Allah” around the base of the cupola. The Greeks took over the church
shortly after it was built between 1140 and 1158, and covered the interior with
glittering mosaics depicting scenes of George of Antioch hiding from the Virgin
Mary, and local honcho Roger II with a crown reportedly given to him by Christ.
In 1433, the church became a Benedictine convent, and the good, if shortsighted,
sisters reworked it by destroying the Norman apse, adding some flowery baroque
design to the facade and replacing many of the mosaics with now-faded frescoes.
In the 1930s, the church was returned to the Greek Orthodox community of
Palermo, which still celebrates the Greek Mass here. A bonus to visiting this
church is the sense of cultural understanding and acceptance this church seems to
invite, as visitors of varying religions come to pray.
Adjacent to La Martorana is the rustic church of San Cataldo, housed in an
intimate structure topped with three classic red Arab-Norman domes. The inte-
rior of the church is completely devoid of decoration except for its wrought-iron
cross. It's also completely lit by candles (the church was never wired for electric-
ity) and the flickering lights against the worn wooden benches and brick arches
give it a deeply serene, spiritual aspect that's quite moving. If you're lucky, you'll
visit San Cataldo when one of the local clergy is humming prayers.