The Bucolic Charms of Puglia - Italy - page 538

and complex that it's hard to pull yourself away. Look for the cherubs' faces, the
fantastic monsters, and the fruits and flowers in his designs.
There's no better activity than simply strolling the city, and you should start
your walking tour of Lecce from the Piazza Sant'Oronzo (but first get a coffee at
one of the many cafes that line the open-air excavations of a 1st-c. B . C . Roman
amphitheater). From here, you can easily explore the mishmash of churches that
clutter the streets leading to the other main square, Piazza Duomo, and Lecce's
main cathedral (with two facades, a bell tower, and a cloister worth visiting). At
the far end of the Piazza Duomo is the Bishop's Palace, with a pretty little foun-
tain in the center courtyard that you can visit for € 1.50. The other Leccese
baroque churches you should see are Santa Chiara, San Matteo, Sant'Irene, and
Santa Teresa, but rather than looking for them, wander the town and stumble
upon them. This is not the type of place where you'll want your nose in a map,
and the city center is small and easy to navigate. Directions to all the churches are
well marked with brown signs.
Accommodations & Dining in Lecce
€€ Try to stay overnight in Lecce. There are tidy little B&Bs like the Centro
Storico B&B (Via A. Vignes, 2b; % 0832-242727), which offers a comfortable
triple room with kitchenette for just € 65. If you don't mind stairs (46 in all and
no elevator), an even more inviting B&B is the Bed and Breakfast Prestige

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(Via Santa Maria del Paradiso, 4; % 0832-243353). Double rooms are under € 80
a night, and most rooms face the church and bell tower, which tolls hourly.

€ If you can only stay for one meal in Lecce, take it at the Trattoria Cucina
Casareccia (Via Colonnello Costadura; % 0832-245178), which is actually

the living room of a private home that has been converted over time into a fam-
ily restaurant. What's on the menu is basically whatever Grandma decides to cook,
but you'll eat well for around € 10 including wine.

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€

A more adventurous culinary choice, though hardly as appealing in terms of
atmosphere, is Alle due Corti (Via Corte dei Giugni, 1; % 0832-242223), which
serves a local dish called tajeddha —a lasagna-style layered dish made with mus-
sels, rice, and potatoes. It may sound a little bit questionable, but it's actually quite
delicious. Alle due Corti also serves another local delicacy, cavallo, which is horse
meat.
Shopping in Lecce
Shopping in Lecce is probably best limited to food and wine. Shops cater to
locals first, and one of their favorites is Panetteria Valentina

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(Via Petronelli,
3; % 0832-300549), which specializes in regional delicacies like pasta, cookies,
and fig paste. It also has a great selection of fresh stuffed-pizza breads to nibble
on while you make your way around town. The owner is a delightful elderly man
who all but hand-feeds you his goods, so don't be shy—it's great fun to sample.
Another fine purchase for sweet gifts is the local handmade chocolate from Maglio
Arte Dolciaria (Via Templari, 16; % 0832-243816; www.cioccolatomaglio.it), which
also has shops in Bari and Maglie nearby. The chocolate-covered figs here are
indescribable and the staff members will package your sweets.