Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE SOUTH
Here the big decision is Bari versus Ostuni. My preference is the latter.
BARI
There is often a sense of obligation to visit any area's largest city and provincial
capital. Bari (on the A14 or S16) is that town and it is
maybe
worth an hour or
two, or a lunchtime stroll through the old town, especially if you're going there
anyway for a ferry connection. But there is absolutely nothing here that you can't
see a better, quainter, quieter version of elsewhere in the province.
If you do find yourself here before a ferry connection and need to kill time,
keep in mind that Bari's legendary reputation for petty crime is exaggerated,
though not completely unwarranted. There are suspicious characters lurking
around the ferry port and a concentration of gypsy kids in the center, but if you're
aware of their presence and vigilant, they likely won't bother you.
When touring Bari, go directly to the
old town,
a maze of tiny streets care-
fully designed to block the strong winds off the Adriatic Sea and to confuse the
enemies that tried to take the town. It works—and it makes it very hard not to
get lost. You won't go too far astray, though, as the old city is surrounded by water
on three sides and butts up against the modern city on the other. A good starting
point is
Piazza San Nicola
and the
Basilica di San Nicola,
with its classic
Romanesque architecture. This is the most clearly marked square in the city. Just
wander through the maze to the
Piazza Odegitria,
which is the closest piazza to
the waterfront and where the city's medieval
Cathedral di San Sabino
and bell
tower stand tall.
From here you can easily visit the Swabian
Castello Normanno-Svevo
(Piazza
Federico II di Svevia, 4;
%
080-5286263;
€
2; Thurs-Tues 9am-7pm),
which is
another of Frederick II's great architectural feats. There is a moderately interest-
ing museum with rotating exhibits and a permanent collection of plaster casts
from the statues in various churches and town squares around the province, but
nothing worth more than a half-hour of browsing. Indeed, Bari isn't worth too
Cheap Sleeps for the Under-30 Crowd
If you are under 30, you are eligible for a fine initiative called
Stop Over
in Bari
(Via Nicola, 47;
%
0881-5214538).
Call ahead and organizers will
set you up with low-priced rooms in quaint hotels, or with private rooms
in houses, and give you a pass for free public transport and free admission
to the museums, plus free bike rental and meal coupons. Book as far in
advance as you can, though, because the best rooms go fast.
If you're over 30, don't sleep here unless you absolutely have to in order
to catch an early ferry—Puglia has more interesting places in which to
spend the night.
