Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
you've got children, and a great choice if you don't mind giving up such ameni-
ties as daily linen and restaurant service. Minimum stay is 2 nights.
ISOLE TREMETI
In the summer months, most everyone who spends time on the Gargano coast
makes the short 40km (25-mile) ferry trip to the Isole Tremiti, which consists of
the distinctively different islands of San Domino, known for its lush green natu-
ral habitat; San Nicola, distinguished by its crags and cliffs; and the untamed
Capraia, which is mostly wilderness. These islands have been used almost exclu-
sively for confinement and contemplation, from their beginnings as a Benedictine
monastery (which still stands) to their role as a jailhouse for political prisoners in
the 1920s and 1930s. Now visitors can choose from nature hikes, bird-watching,
swimming, or church-gazing. But staying on the islands is not recommended
because accommodations are limited and expensive, and there simply isn't enough
to do here to warrant more than a morning or afternoon excursion. The most
effi-
cient and affordable ferries
are those operated by
Adriatica Navigazione
(www.
tirrenia.it),
which has frequent service during the summer and should get you
there for around
€
10 one-way.
CASTEL DEL MONTE
555
The last must-see stop in northern Puglia is the impressive, if a little out of the
way, 13th-century UNESCO World Heritage Site, Castel del Monte
(west of
Andria on highway S170; www.castellipuglia.org/en/monte.html;
€
3; Apr-Sept
8:30am-7pm, rest of the year 9am-2pm, closed Sun).
This is another Frederick II
fortress, which nobody, not even the local tourist authority, can exactly explain.
The massive octagonal castle, built between 1229 and 1249, is a perfect mix of
mathematical and astronomical precision, and affords some peculiar optical illu-
sions as you wander through the eight 25m-high (82-ft.) octagonal towers. From
every point you see octagonal glimpses of the sky and the shadows within the cas-
tle's courtyard form more octagons. The number eight is symbolic in astronomy
and religion, and many believe this castle is the perfect symbol of the union of the
infinite and finite. Each room has floors originally laid with hexagon-patterned
marble and adorned with Muslim influences like double-painted arches, some of
which remain in the eighth room from the stairway. From the fifth room you
explore what used to be an aviary for falcons. From the terrace, note the double-
slanted roof, which diverted rainwater to both a holding tank and into the castle's
bathrooms.
The castle sits high above the plains and some say it was a hunting fortress,
though history books claim it has never been inhabited. Regardless, you'll marvel
at the ancient architecture. You can see it perched on its high hill for miles as you
approach, and it's probably the most organized tourist spot in Puglia. You must
park 2km (1
1
⁄
4
miles) below the castle, in the public lot, which has a handful of
sandwich bars, picnic areas, and public toilets;
3 covers all-day parking and the
ride on the shuttle bus, which leaves every 15 minutes. Two restaurants are found
at the top near the castle, along with a souvenir shop selling bits of armor and
medieval fridge magnets. Just don't leave until you've walked around the entire
perimeter of the castle to survey the countryside.
€
