Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Maps
Touring Club Italia (www.touringclub.it) has the best maps for navigating this
region. You can pick up a map at most newspaper stands and bookstores. You can
also study the complete highway system and check traffic reports on www.auto
strade.it , which is also a good tool for planning your itinerary.
a couple of days and have to choose between north and south, head south to see
the trulli and to saunter around the Leccese baroque villages here. The beachfront
isn't nearly as nice as that along the northern coast, but this area really offers a lot
more in terms of the diversity and range of true Pugliese culture and history.
In the north, the two best hubs are the medieval village of Lucera (p. 529)
and the coast of the Gargano Promontory (p. 530), which fills the spur of Italy's
boot. Lucera is really an optimal base with its wonderful local color, and it's an
easy drive from there to the Gargano Promontory. If you prefer the beach, how-
ever, go directly to the Gargano coast, where there is really no major difference
between Vieste (p. 531) and Peschici (p. 531), the area's two most picturesque sea-
side locales. But if you turn your Puglian visit into a beach vacation, you will miss
most of what the area has to offer.
In the south, the city of Lecce (p. 538) is the unquestionable top choice in
which to stay. This lovely town is coming of age; it's culture-rich and just a short
drive from anywhere you'd want to go in the Salento peninsula. But a second
option, especially if you're keen to experience local culture, is the charismatic hill-
top village of Ostuni (p. 536), the so-called “white city,” just off the main high-
way between Bari and Brindisi. This town is bursting with local flavor (but lacks
the number of accommodations choices you find in Lecce). A recent effort by the
city to upgrade restaurants, wine bars, and shops is paying off, making Ostuni a
great spot for experiencing some of the best local food and wine. Here, too, you
are in trulli country, and just a short drive out of the village will put you on some
of the most fascinating back roads of the entire region.
If, instead, you prefer a slightly offbeat adventure, head down to the Ionian
side of Puglia and settle in at the ancient seaport village of Gallipoli. Here you
are still less than 1 1 2 hours from Brindisi and around an hour on good highways
from the main attractions like Lecce and the trulli area. But take heed: This little
fishing village is not nearly as developed as Ostuni. But it is romantic and quiet,
and a great spot for mixing with locals, sunbathing on free beaches, and eating
fresh seafood for next to nothing. The best mussels (cozze) and clams (vongole) in
all of Southern Italy are found near here.
THE NORTH
Although, as I've said, your two best hubs for touring the north are Lucera and
the Gargano Promontory, two sights—the offshore Isole Trimeti and the historic
Castel del Monte—are of such importance in this northern area that I've broken
out a discussion of them in the pages that follow.
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