The Bucolic Charms of Puglia - Italy - page 525

DON'T LEAVE PUGLIA WITHOUT . . .
POKING AROUND CAVES, CAVERNS & RAVINES One of Puglia's great
treasures is its many caves and caverns. Some are the conventional stalagmite-
stalactite variety, like the spectacular Grotte di Castellana (p. 534), near Bari.
More unusual is the deep cave in which the altar of the Santuario di San Michele
in Monte Sant'Angelo is found. It is also well worth the journey along winding
roads to take a day trip to Matera, just across the border into the province of
Basilicata, to amble around the ruins of this eerie city carved into the ravines.
SPOTTING TRULLI Almost everyone associates Puglia with the strange ice-
cream-cone-shaped structures called trulli, but nothing really prepares you for the
sight of these elfin houses. A drive along the back roads of the Itria Valley is a great
way to see the ancient trulli between Ostuni (p. 536) and the trulli capital of
Alberobello (p. 534).
NOTING THE LECCESE BAROQUE Ornate baroque can be overwhelming
under the best conditions, but there is something almost subtle about the special-
ized designs found in Lecce (p. 538), which is why they are known as Leccese
baroque. This captivating city is the jewel of southern Puglia and should not be
missed.
SEEING THE GARGANO PROMONTORY The lush green Foresta Umbra
of the Gargano Promontory in northern Puglia (p. 530) literally sprouts from
the surrounding farmlands that make up the spur of Italy's boot. This environ-
mentally friendly spot is a camper's paradise and a nature lover's dream.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF PUGLIA
Puglia is basically the heel of Italy's boot, surrounded by the Adriatic and Ionian
seas. Because it's the first piece of land jutting out to the east, it served as the point
of entry for most invasions into Italy. In fact, Puglia has been conquered, claimed,
or rebuilt by the Greeks, Byzantines, Romans, Normans, and Spanish.
The most obvious influence in Puglia's history was that of Frederick II of
Hohenstaufen, who reigned as Holy Roman Emperor until he died in 1250. His
interests were nature and geometry, and the architecture he inspired is stunning.
You won't see much in Puglia that he didn't build or otherwise influence.
Today, Puglia is a vital agricultural and fishing center, with its low, rolling hills
producing more grain, tomatoes, lemons, and olives than any other Italian province.
Eighty percent of the durum wheat for Europe's pasta industry is produced here,
and almost all of Italy's olives for oil are grown here, as well as some of the coun-
try's most legendary grape vintages like Primitivo red and Salento whites. Puglia
alone produces more wine than Germany does. The fishermen along the Adriatic
coast are the county's most prolific. Across the peninsula along the Ionian coast,
the mussels and clams are highly sought after.
The northern plains are oddly similar to the United States heartland, where agri-
culture reigns. It's perfectly normal to see a giant John Deere tractor on the medieval
streets of villages like Lucera. Here, farming is the most lucrative business around.