Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
13
The Bucolic
13
Charms of Puglia
Moderately priced villages, a fascinating history,
and an enchanting countryside—why discerning
travelers try to keep Puglia to themselves.
by Barbie Latza Nadeau
W
HAT
'
S THE
“
NEXT TUSCANY
”?
MANY SAY PUGLIA
,
THE REGION THAT
stretches from Tremiti to the very bottom of Italy's boot heel. So much of what
makes Tuscany captivating—expansive views of vineyards and olive groves, as well
as a very distinct cuisine and wine—is mirrored here in Puglia (minus the heavy
influx of tourists, at least for now).
Puglia, which in English is sometimes called Apulia, boasts monumental cas-
tles built by Frederick II, and remnants of ancient fortresses. Magnificent natural
wonders, like rare limestone caverns and underground rivers, are rewarding to
explore. Tiny working-class fishing villages overflow with hidden treasures, from
exquisite baroque churches to well-preserved mosaics. The area is largely rural, its
country roads flanked with stone fences, its hills dotted with conical
trulli
houses.
Puglia is also one of the few places in Italy where centuries-old customs
endure. You can still find matriarchs rolling pasta by hand in the back alleys of
coastal towns like Gallipoli, and it's common to hear a Greek dialect spoken on
the eastern tip of the peninsula. English words almost never appear on menus in
Puglia, and prices rarely exceed
€
12 a head for a delectable three-course meal
including some of Italy's best local wine.
But it's wise to remember that Puglia is not Tuscany—not yet, anyway. And its
museums, though ample, are not on par with those in Rome, Naples, Venice, and
Florence. Much of what's on display is mainly for those who already have a keen
knowledge of Italian history and the country's national heritage. While tourists
are welcome, you will never feel particularly catered to here.
Touring Puglia is sometimes a challenge. Public transportation is marred by
sporadic schedules and confusing routes, which often name townships rather than
particular cities. Restaurants open very late for dinner, and service staff, even in
hotels, rarely speak even basic English. It's still primarily a region where Italians
unwind, explore their history, and enjoy some of the country's most unusual cui-
sine. Of course, that makes Puglia a great place to meet locals.
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