Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
You don't come to Sorrento to eat. On the whole the food here is forgettable, with
the same seafood menus and decor at each restaurant. These carbon-copy eateries
offer an overall bland dining experience with the following exceptions:
€
For an outstanding lunch that is slightly different—think octopus in tomato
sauce, or a terrific spaghetti with clams—go to
Angelina Lauro
55
(Piazza
Angelina Lauro, 39-40;
%
081-8074097).
It's a self-service buffet with extraordi-
nary homemade food and a large local following. Pasta dishes start at just
€
3 and
are almost always excellent.
A charming restaurant frequented by locals is
O'Parrucchiano
(Corso Italia,
67;
%
081-8781321;www.parrucchiano.com),
which has been in the same family
since it opened in 1868. Its first owner left the seminary to found the original trat-
toria, and when his friends came to visit, they taunted him that he hadn't become
a parish priest, or
parrucchiano
(hence the name of the restaurant). It's a jungle in
here, but a romantic one, with plants and foliage everywhere. The specialty of the
house is cannelloni—the waiters claim that the dish was actually created here.
€
If you're looking more for character than for cuisine, try
Ristorante il
€€
(Rampa Marina Piccola, 6;
%
081-8782354; www.ilbucoristorante.it),
just outside Sorrento's old town. Built inside an abandoned wine cellar, all curved
ceilings and ancient stone, its dishes are varied and generally satisfying, accompa-
nied by a superb wine list. It's a favorite among locals, so you'll actually hear Italian
spoken here, not the usual tourist potpourri of English, German, and French.
POSITANO
55
Buco
55
Positano is still widely considered the jewel of this stretch of coastline, but in
catering to an ever more affluent and prestigious set of guests, this little village of
3,800 has all but out-priced itself to the average tourist. It's almost impossible to
find a double room for under
225 a night.
And a growing trend toward “child-free” establishments further defines this area
as a romantic honeymoon or anniversary spot, or a place for wealthy pensioners.
There's no real reason to stay in Positano unless you're lucky enough to find an
apartment or private room, but even those cater to the fatter wallets. Fortunately,
the town is easy to visit. It's well worth a walk up the steps and down the busy
shopping streets.
The only real sight,
other than the obvious views of the sea and
coastline, is the often photographed church
Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
(Piazza Flavio Gioia; 8am-noon and 3:30-7pm).
The reason you come here is to
explore the stepped streets, window-shop, and take in the views from along the
cliffs. Try to stick to the northern side of town if you want to avoid the crowds.
The best way to explore is just to wander and climb, turn the corners, and follow
your instincts. You cannot get lost here—the only ways to go are up or down.
If you are determined
to stay in Positano,
first check
My Home Your
Home
€
150, with most hovering around
€
555
9
(Via Duomo, 196;
%
081-19565835; www.myhomeyourhome.
it),
which has a few affordable-for-Positano apartments and rooms within homes
for just over
100 a night. Bear in mind that the cheapest rooms in Positano are
often booked a season ahead, and a good deal is hard to find.
€
