Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Bloody Naples
Naples is often called the “city of blood,” but not because of Mafia activ-
ity. This is a city where religious rites border on spectacle, and nothing is
so fascinating as watching congealed blood liquefy in front of thousands
of parishioners. If you want to catch that phenomenon, try one of the
churches listed below. (But go early if you want to get a glimpse of the
vials before the miracles happen.)
u
San Gennaro at the Duomo:
First Saturday in May, September 19,
and December 16.
u
St. Patrizia at the church of San Gregorio Armeno:
Every Tuesday,
August 25, and on request if parishioners insist.
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San Giovanni Battista at the church of San Gregorio Armeno:
August 29.
The rest of the museum is also captivating. One highlight is the
Sezione
Presepiale,
which houses a stunning collection of nativity scenes, all hand-carved
over the past 4 centuries. The
Cuciniello presepe
spans the width of the room,
with a landscaped scene of Christ's birth, made from wood, cork, papier-mâché,
and terra cotta. Carry on through this part of the museum and out into the
Great
Cloister,
a serene oasis except for the odd display of skulls along the railings. On
the far side of the cloister is a tiny waiting room where one of several friendly
experts are only too happy to take you through the locked portion of the museum.
Though none of the escorts speaks English, each is very animated and proud to
be assigned to this collection of art. There is a fascinating collection of old maps
and scenes of Naples, along with ebony boxes and intricate clocks. Most people
come here to see the famous Pietro Bernini work,
Madonna and Child with the
Infant John the Baptist.
I recommend that you pass through a door, covered by a velvet curtain, just
off the Great Cloister, for a peek at some frescoes by important Neapolitan artists.
You can also wander the terraced gardens and visit some of the smaller rooms of
the old monastery, but make sure you head back out to the tiled overlook for
another view of Naples before leaving.
Down the road from the Certosa di San Martino is the odd
Castel Sant'Elmo
(Via Tito Angelini, 22;
%
081-5784030;
€
2; Mon-Tues and Thurs-Sat 8:30am-
7:30pm, Sun 9am-6:30pm).
It was originally built over the site of a 13th-century
church, and it affords stunning panoramas over the bay and Mt. Vesuvius. It's
basically the same view that you get from the Certosa, but it has the added bonus
of an unobstructed view of Mt. Vesuvius.
THE OTHER NAPLES
Churches and museums are central to any visit to Naples, but it would be a shame
not to stop and take in the local color. Sit at an outdoor table at the
Café Diaz
(Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore della Pietrasanta)
or down farther at the
Lontano
