Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
can get to it. This castle, the oldest in Naples, almost always seems to be in some
sort of transition, whether it's a new excavation or a general shoring up of the
ancient walls. Most of the building is closed to the public and used as office space,
so unless there's an exhibit of interest, there's little reason to schedule a visit. More
interesting in this area is the
Borgo Marinaro
55
, a tiny fishing village that's
attached like a barnacle onto the side of the city center. There are some apart-
ments, but the dock area is mostly sidewalk cafes and seafood restaurants over-
looking the expensive yachts and fishing boats moored here. It's a vibrant spot in
the summer, but a little off-putting in winter.
If you're more interested in actually seeing Naples than in being seen down in
the fashionable part of town, head up to the summit of the
Monte Echia
55
,
which was originally settled in the 7th century
B
.
C
. as the city of Parthenope.
Getting here is a short but grueling hike up the hill from the Piazza Carolina, just
behind the north end of the Piazza del Plebiscito. When you reach the Via
Egiziaca a Pizzofalcone, just keep climbing until you reach the top and are pre-
sented with spectacular views. There's a garden here where you can ponder for a
spell before heading down the other side, taking the hairpin stairs past houses
until you reach the
Chiatamone,
just in front of Castel dell'Ovo.
Corso Umberto I
You're likely to see the grungiest part of Naples first if you arrive by train near
Piazza Garibaldi and down the busy Corso Umberto I. At this writing, the streets
here are made even more chaotic by the massive cranes and loud, choking con-
struction sites for the city's new metro stations. But this part of town also has its
charm. It's here that the city's many immigrants set up stalls and shops, giving the
city an almost Middle Eastern feel. Here, too, is Chinatown.
There are many
churches
in this area, but the two most noteworthy are the
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine
(Piazza del Carmine;
%
081-201196),
which
has a massive fireworks display from the bell tower each July 16 that you can see
from all along the flanks of Mt. Vesuvius; and the
Chiesa di San Pietro ad Aram
(Corso Umberto I, 292;
%
081-286411).
Both are uniquely Neapolitan and
steeped in religious tradition. At San Pietro ad Aram, for example, you can visit the
crypt of the unknown martyrs supposedly buried behind the white walls. You can
buy red votive candles on the way down, and join the prayers of the ultrafaithful,
who hum Gregorian chants as they reach out toward the wall—it's a magical expe-
rience and a very good introduction to the religious fervor of the Neapolitans.
Celebrations in May
The best cultural event this side of Rome is Naples's
Maggio dei Monumenti
(
Monument of May;
%
081-2471123),
when the city is alive with cultural activ-
ity. Owners of impressive
palazzi,
which are generally closed to the public, open
their doors for a peek inside. The city sponsors open-air concerts, exhibits, and
street fairs in non-conventional places and out of the way
piazze.
You could wan-
der around Naples every day of the month without repeating your steps. It's a cul-
tural bonanza well worth planning your trip around.
