Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Never on a Sunday
Unless you're prepared to attend Mass, don't even think about visiting Naples's
churches on Sunday mornings. You'll be hushed and rushed out of the nave before
you can make the sign of the cross. Churches open as early as 6:30am; almost
all are open by 8am. They close again around noon, some as late as 1pm. (The
churches tend to open again at 4pm and close by 9pm). Stay away from churches
during unannounced services like funerals and weddings, no matter how tempting
it may be to steal a peak at a gorgeous bride. In time, she'll be out on the church
steps for all to see.
Adjacent to the piazza, through a decaying 14th-century arch, is the austere
church of
Santa Chiara
(Via Benedetto Croce;
%
081-5526280).
Most of the
church was destroyed by a World War II bombing in 1943, so the interior is
largely unembellished. The fire that followed the bombing took 6 days to put out,
and destroyed all the original Gothic and baroque features and frescoes by mas-
ters like Giotto. Local children play soccer in front of the main entrance in the
summer, and a slew of gypsy women line the steps asking for a little
spicci,
or small
change. The main draw here is its 14th-century
cloister
5
555
(
€
4 for cloister
and museum)
around the back on the left side. It's hard to believe you're still in
the center of Naples when you step into this peaceful haven. And it's no surprise
that these serene gardens are a frequent meeting point for Neapolitan elders, who
sit on the always-cool stone benches along the perimeter. If you follow these old-
timers in, watch how the ticket seller casually walks away to let them pass by with-
out paying. But stay away from the maze of colorful benches in the center; these
are strictly off-limits, and if you try to sit here, a SWAT team of church officials
will stop you. Nevertheless, look closely at the details of the tiles, which range
from floral landscapes to happy village scenes from the 18th century. The adja-
cent
museum
(9:30am-1pm and 2:30-5:30pm)
is largely unimpressive except for
the remnants of the church from before the war.
There are two fascinating
smaller churches
in this quarter. First is the Gothic
San Domenico Maggiore
5
on the piazza of the same name, which was built right
on top of the church of Sant'Angelo a Morfisa. Small chapels on each side are
named for those who took solace here, like Giordano Bruno, who was burned at
the stake in Rome's Campo de' Fiori; and St. Thomas Aquinas, who stayed here
in the 13th century and whose chapel features an icon that is said to have spoken
to him. The second of these smaller churches is the
Capella Sansevero
55
(Via Francesco de Sanctis),
with an astonishing sculpture of the
Veiled Christ
by
Giuseppe Sanmartino, which will make you rethink any preconceptions you had
about the limitations of marble.
Also worth a look is the
Pio Monte della Misericordia
55
(Via Tribunali,
253),
with its own
Caravaggio masterpiece,
Le Sette Opere di Misericordia (The
Seven Acts of Mercy).
If you've got the time, you should also check out
San
Gregorio Armeno
(Via San Gregorio Armeno, 44).
Visit this church on a Tuesday
to witness a miracle similar to that at the Duomo, this time when the congealed
