Rome: Where All Roads Lead - Italy - page 35

at €6, is so sloppy good that the gentle waiters are known to affix a napkin-bib to
you if you are wearing a white shirt.

New to the restaurant mecca in Testaccio is Tuttifrutti (Via Luca della
Robbia, 3A; % 06-5757902; closed for lunch), an eatery that has great potential,
though it's not yet a regular stop for the Italians. Its multilingual owner Michele
enjoys translating the menu in truly colorful, animated English (and you'll enjoy
listening to him do it). The menu, which changes several times a week depending
on market offerings, has some creative dishes, often utilizing curry or mint to
spice up usual Roman fare, and most first plates start at €8. The food is always
satisfying, and some items like the fried pizza balls (pizzelle) are truly exceptional.
This is an upbeat alternative to the working-class digs nearby. Come on a Monday
when the chef offers a fixed theme menu (not to be confused with his tourist
menu) based on seasonal market offerings.

€€

€€€ If you are looking for something more “dressed up” in this neighborhood,
there are two solid options. Checchino dal 1887 (Via di Monte Testaccio, 30;
% 06-5746318; www.checchino-dal-1887.com; Tues-Sat), as the name implies,
has been around for a very long time. This is a meat-lover's paradise, set directly
across from the old slaughterhouse on the far end of the district along the slopes
of the man-made Monte Testaccio. A more expensive choice than most of the
other restaurants in this area, with pastas starting at almost €10, it draws Romans
from all over the city.

€€€ Another elegant alternative is the very romantic Consolini all Arco di San
Lazzaro (Via Marmorata, 28; % 06-57300145), which is literally attached to the
San Sabina hill (with an entrance on Via Marmorata next to the Porsche dealer-
ship). In summer, ask to sit on the flowered terraces. Seafood is the specialty here,
and a favorite is gnocchi with lobster sauce at €12. But this is not a family-friendly
place, so don't bring the kids with you.
Places to Snack in Testaccio
€ Rome's finest delicatessen, Volpetti (Via Marmorata, 47; % 06-5742352; www.
volpetti.com), is a massive barrage to the senses. If you even feign the slightest
interest in a product, the helpful crew behind the counter will have you sampling
goodies, tasting the various olive oils and vinegars until you beg for mercy. This
is the place to buy vinegars and oils (in small, packable bottles that start around
€5), cheeses, or cured meats to take back home. The owners here will vacuum seal
and pack everything for you, including special gift boxes with local samples. You
can also buy a slice of pizza or order a special deli sandwich to take away.

€ If you prefer to sit to eat, go around the corner to the delicious Volpetti Piu
(Via A. Volta, 8; % 06-57301439), a self-service tavola calda (cafe or diner) with
products from the deli. They make the best potato pizza in the city, bar none, and
you can walk away satisfied for under €5. The menu here changes depending on
the season; other than extraordinarily tasty pizza by the slice, the specialties are
lasagna (vegetarian or buffalo mozzarella) and interesting cold pasta dishes, as well
as rice-and-chickpea salads.