Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
of Naples, utterly out of place thanks to its no-frills decor, but swarming with
locals most nights nonetheless. You'll find all the classic Neapolitan dishes here,
with most pastas selling for just
6. They're good, as are the calzones, but I par-
ticularly like the vegetable dishes (the perfect eggplant Parmesan, for starters). Try
to to get a table outside if the weather is nice.
RESTAURANTS ON THE WATERFRONT
€€€
Hands held across the table, couples gazing dreamily iris into iris, roman-
tic conversations, surprise proposals: These are common sights at the restaurants
of the Borgo Marino, where romance isn't just in the air, it's on the menu and
playing footsie under the table. All of this loving is inspired by the lovely water-
side views from each terraced restaurant (when the weather is chilly, they bring
out heaters rather than close these money-making terraces). The best of these
restaurants is the legendary
Zi Teresa
€
(Borgo Marinaro, 1;
%
081-7642565;
reservations recommended),
which Norman Lewis wrote about in
Naples '44
—a
must read if you really want an eye on the Neapolitan mentality during World
War II. The former dive, named for a favorite aunt, is now a swank restaurant on
an expansive terrace. But even though it's pricier than the
trattorie
in the center
core, it's still a very good value—for fresh seafood and fresh pasta, in particular—
especially compared to what you get in cities like Rome for these prices. If you
watch what you order, you can easily get a filling and delicious plate of pasta, a
salad, and a carafe of the house white for around
€
20, including service.
RESTAURANTS IN VOMERO
€€€
55
Up on the Vomero, the best choice you can make is the cozy
Donna
(Via Michele Kerbaker, 58;
%
081-5567070; reservations recom-
mended),
a terrifically popular restaurant with locals, especially at lunchtime, so
you really must book ahead. Once you've eaten here, you will understand the
appeal—the food is marvelous, hearty, and unique. A favorite on the menu is the
pasta patata e provala
for
€
12, a casserole of pasta, potatoes, and smoked cheese.
WHY YOU'RE HERE: THE TOP
SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS
SIGHTSEEING IN THE HISTORICAL CENTER
It is in Naples's center that the raw Neapolitan energy is most evident. Here you
can get a genuine sense of what this city is really all about. This part of town also
has some of the city's best museums and most venerable churches. Window-shop
along the Spaccanapoli (made up of the Via Benedetto Croce, Via San Biagio dei
Librai, and Via Vicaria Vecchia) and the Decumano Maggiore (now called the Via
dei Tribunali).
Museums & Sights in the Historical Center
The crown jewel of the Neapolitan museum scene is the
National Archaeological
Museum
55
Teresa
(Piazza Museo Nazionale, 19;
%
081-440166; www.marketplace.it/
museo.nazionale;
€
6.50; daily 9am-7:30pm).
This is Europe's oldest and, experts
agree, most comprehensive archaeological museum.
555
