Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
12
Naples, Pompeii
12
& the Amalfi
Coast
Meet the unusual Neapolitans, and then tour
one of the most awesome coastlines on earth.
by Barbie Latza Nadeau
I
T
'
S A PLACE WHERE PEOPLE WEAR THEIR EMOTIONS ON THEIR SLEEVES
.
IT
'
S
a boisterous, pulsating city, with a flavor and cuisine all its own. It's fun and
unforgettable. And yet legions of people are terrified at the thought of making a
visit to Naples because this metropolis of just over a million people has the dubi-
ous honor of being Italy's crime capital and home base to the Camorra, the coun-
try's largest organized-crime outfit. Even though the Camorra hasn't killed a
tourist in years, not even accidentally, the perception that mobsters and thugs
roam the Neapolitan streets is enough to sway many would-be visitors from
including Naples in their travel plans.
But to skip Naples out of fear of its reputation is the real crime. Naples is a
city so vibrant it seems to be
writhing
with energy and passion, which can be
downright contagious. And don't wait. Legendary Naples is disappearing fast,
being replaced by everything from modern conveniences to traffic rules.
It's impossible to miss the urban renewal in progress. At the time of this writ-
ing, almost every major square in the city center is a construction site for an elab-
orate, new underground metro line that should go into operation sometime
before 2008. The skyline is spiked with large construction cranes and many of
Naples's churches are hidden under scaffolding. Museums are being revitalized.
Meanwhile, there's a genuine attempt to limit some sections of the old center to
pedestrian traffic.
The Neapolitans will try to convince you that they're the only real Italians
left—or, for that matter, who have ever existed. They are ardent ambassadors for
themselves, and will give you dozens of reasons why their city is the best in the
country. And they may have a case. Naples could be considered one of Italy's most
rewarding destinations. Whether you're quietly pondering an ancient relic at a
world-class museum or dodging mopeds on the narrow cobblestone streets of the
historical center, spending time here is like getting a shot of adrenalin; it's impos-
sible not to come away at once overwhelmed and invigorated. Yes, the traffic
is
deadly, and the winding streets
are
crowded with helmet-less prepubescent kids
careering around pedestrians and trinket peddlers. Pollution is a genuine problem,
too, from pungent litter to toxic emissions from vehicles that have likely never
been street-legal. And there's a good chance that someone will take advantage of
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