Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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€€€
If you're looking for a taste of the Italian Riviera in an untouched
medieval fishing village, catch the bus to Boccadasse, and take a table at
Santa
Chiara
(Via Capo Santa Chiara, 69r;
%
010-3770081),
where Luisa and her hus-
band Luigi serve wonderful seafood on rocks beaten by the sea. And the restau-
rant has stunning views that stretch all the way east to Mount Portofino, which is
why you won't even wince at the
€
4
coperto
(average
primo
€
10;
secondo
€
13).
You can sit in the cool whitewashed rooms, with excellent art on the walls and
perfectly framed views through the windows; however, I would opt for a table on
the edge of the terrace, where you can take in the variegated blues and greens of
the coastline.
If you enjoy people-watching, head for
Le Colonne di San Bernardo
(
%
010-2461252),
a similarly gorgeous venue akin to Café Garibaldi, and located
on one of Genoa's oldest streets (a few steps down from Piazza San Bernardo).
Owned by the colorful Michele Serrano, an ex-actor/journalist/antiquarian, he
attracts a like-minded clientele (like Lordana, owner of Art B&B, and Lorenzo,
owner of Via Garibaldi 12), for whom he creates rather interesting recipes
(Lorenzo loves his signature lobster and
martini bianco pasta,
priced at
€€€€
18).
WHY YOU'RE HERE: THE TOP SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS
With some 30 museums clamoring for your attention, Genoa offers that typical
Italian dilemma—so much to see, so little time. That said, my top picks are all
within walking distance of each other on pleasant streets from which vehicular
traffic is banned. Your stroll will include the following:
1.
The
centro storico.
This is the city's ancient heart, dating between the 12th
and 16th century, where space constraints forced its inhabitants to build ever
upwards, resulting in a sort of medieval Manhattan. The converging build-
ings create narrow, twisting lanes, which every now and then open onto
“breathing spaces”: tiny squares, often lined with cafes or bars. You might
want to ignore the stops I advise below and just lose yourself here.
2.
The
Strada Nuova,
the city's famous Renaissance streets. These include Via
Garibaldi, created in the mid-16th century and known as Rue des Rois
(Street of Kings) and Via Balbi, created in the early 17th century. Both are
living proof of the city's historical high point, when its wealthiest flexed
gilded financial muscles by creating semi-private streets wide enough for new
carriages, from which they would enter mansions that were the envy of
Europe.
3.
Porto Antico,
home to Europe's largest aquarium. Besides offering that
structure, the harbor affords a pleasant albeit touristy stroll (particularly at
night, when the views of the terraced city are splendid), and is a must-see for
anyone traveling with kids.
Centro Storico
€
555
From Via Garibaldi, you can plunge directly into the labyrinthine
centro storico
and get thoroughly lost—even armed with a map, you'll be tempted to take a
short cut only to find yourself a few steps from where you started. If you'd like to
see a house museum, with a smaller but more focused art collection, stop at
Palazzo Spinola
(Piazza Pellicceria, 1;
%
010-2705300; free admission with
