Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
An Unwelcome Visitor to Genoa
In July 2005, more than 100 people were admitted to hospitals with fevers,
headaches, and watery eyes after spending the day at the beach. The culprit? An
increasingly warm Mediterranean sea has led to toxic warm-water algae blooming
this far north for the first time. Before taking to the waves, check the status of
the water with your host or nearest tourism bureau.
The following suggestions (with the exception of Villa Pagoda) are all conve-
niently located in the medieval heart of the city:
€€ - €€€ Hotel Colombo (Via Porta Soprana, 27/59R; % 010-2513643; www.
hotelcolombo.it), a two-star hotel in the historical center (within spitting distance
of the 12th-c. Porta Soprana), is my hands-down favorite budget lodging in the
city, with small rooms (average-size for historical Genoa, though) but really
quirky decor (upturned turn-of-the-20th-c. trunk as TV table, ostrich-feather
cushions on wrought-iron chairs, secondhand Corbusier classics—you get the
picture). Doubles go for 85 to 100. Patrizia, a delightful bohemian, keeps
upgrading as the money comes in—next year sees her seventh-floor roof terrace,
with lovely city views (and already dressed with lemon trees and blooming gera-
niums pots), turned into the breakfast room.
€€ On the other side of the historical center (off Via Balbi, and very close to
Stazione Principe), Agnello D'Oro (Via Monachette, 6; % 010-2462084; www.
hotelagnellodoro.it) is a charming and rather more old-fashioned albergo, where
hands-on owner Concetta acts as an informal tourism bureau (despite limited
English). Rooms average around 80 for two, breakfast included—ask for one of
the top-floor garret rooms for best views (room 56 is the best one in the house).
€€ - €€€ For a more traditional hotel-like experience, the recently renovated
three-star Hotel Helvetia (Piazza Nunziata, 1; % 010-2465468; www.hotelhelvetia
genova.it) offers the best value for the money in its price bracket; ask the charm-
ing manager Nedo (source of great restaurant recommendations) for a room on
the second floor with a terrace facing the piazza (overlooking one of the city's
open-air hubs). Doubles range from
105. You'll feel like you're still in
the old city, but without the claustrophobia of its narrow lanes.
75 to
€€ - €€€€
Moving up the scale (and comfort zone) Best Western has two
excellently located hotels in the old city, of which Hotel Metropoli (Piazza
Fontane Marose; % 010-2468888; www.bestwestern.it/metropoli_ge) offers bet-
ter value. Rooms ( 89- 165) are somewhat bland but come with the expected
modern conveniences, and reception staff is very helpful. Before you book either
of these however, do check whether the Jolly Hotel Marina (Molo Ponte Calvi, 5;
% 010-2511320; www.jollyhotels.com) has any specials. It's a super four-star
hotel floating on the harbor waters (spitting distance from the aquarium; 150 a
night for a double was an excellent value in 2005).
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