Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
stroll from the seaside action (and town center), nothing much has changed since
the Tarellas opened their doors 40 years ago—but that is precisely its charm. Ask
for a room with a terrace or a balcony (room 4 is a good choice). Doubles range
from
€
60 to
€
100.
Also recommended is the popular
Hotel Conte Verde
(Via Zara, 1;
%
0185-
287139; www.hotelconteverde.it),
located 100m (328 ft.) from the seafront, and
an easy stroll from the station. Alessandro is unwilling to be pinned down on price
but on one recent day in September he was charging
€
90 for a double (reduced
to
€€
80 for a 3-day stay). Every room is different in size and individually deco-
rated—if you are staying for more than 1 night, request a room with a terrace.
€
5
(Luisito Costa, 6;
%
0185-287512; www.hoteljolanda.it),
a wonderful over-the-
top creation of glamorous Miriam Pastine. Given the atmosphere of decadence
and old-fashioned luxury (there's plenty of wood paneling and gilt mirrors), it's a
very good value; opt for the superior category (standard is tiny) or splurge for a
huge suite. Doubles start at
€
100.
The best non-budget option is the centrally located
Hotel Jolanda
€€€
€€€€
Santa Margherita's sweeping promenade is lined with large Liberty-style
hotels—sadly, staff at most of these gorgeous old piles don't understand the
first thing about service, with the stellar exception of the (very)
Grand Hotel
Miramare
(Via Milite Ignoto;
%
0185-287013; www.grandhotelmiramare.it).
Dressed in antiques and pretty touches, with floor-to-ceiling windows and large
bathrooms overlooking the sea, its interiors are equaled by the magnificent exte-
rior. Hardly surprising, then, that it is still the most popular and romantic option
in Santa Margherita almost 60 years after Laurence Olivier and Vivienne Leigh
chose to honeymoon here. Doubles cost from
555
€
239 to
€
356, including breakfast.
Waiter, Could You Order My Boat?
€
-
€€
There is something wonderfully romantic about having to catch a boat
to get to your restaurant table, something which
Trattoria La Cantina
(
%
0185-
772626)
and
Da Giovanni
(
%
0185-770047)
have certainly capitalized on over
the years. Both are fortunate enough to be located in the tiny village of San
Fruttuoso, the latter enjoying the greater fame, but both play to packed houses.
Lesser known, and even more stunningly situated, is
Trattoria dö Spadin
55
at
Punta Chiappa (you can't miss the sign as you approach;
%
0185-770624).
Though food is a tad pricey (
primi
€
13;
coperto
€
3), it is classic
cucina povera
—
simple, fresh, light, and delicious—but the cost may have as much to do with the
glorious location as it does with the fare. The restaurant faces Camogli and the
entire Golfo Paradiso, and it's sandwiched between the startling blue sea, which
crashes below your seat, and a tiny kitchen that looks like it's been styled for a
cookbook on Riviera cuisine. Pack your swim gear, and, after coffee, wander down
to the harbor and wade in the ocean. My idea of heaven.
