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these (try Baia first, where the decor is marginally better), you'll more than likely
tout Monterosso as the best of the Cinque Terre's villages. But don't stay if there
are no sea-view rooms left.
€€€ A little farther along (through the tunnel) is the only beachfront option
in the historical section, located on what is often referred to as “fishermen's beach.”
All the rooms at Hotel Pasquale
(Via Fegina, 4; % 0187-817550; www.
pasini.com) have sea views; the hotel is also relatively tasteful and at
55
135 a good
value option, given that it's both beachfront and old town.
€€€
If there are no sea-facing rooms available in the beach hotels, your best
bet in Monterosso is Villa Steno
(Via Roma, 109; % 0187-817354; www.pasini.
com). It's a modern building in a tranquil location above the old town; most
rooms come with a private sea-view balcony or little garden furnished with table
and chairs, ready for the evening sundowner and picnic. A double goes for
5
140.
5
(Via Roma,
37; % 0187-817013; www.monterossonet.com). With only six rooms ( 100- 130
for doubles; 170 for suites), some with lovely frescoed ceilings, and stylish pub-
lic rooms, this is as close as the Cinque Terre gets to a boutique hotel. But it's a
little stuffy.
Alternatively, if Villa Steno is full, try Locanda Il Maestrale
€€€
Stuffy is not a word you'd use for the down-to-earth Albergo Marina (Via
Buranco, 40; % 0187-817613; www.hotelmarinacinqueterre.it) or its neighbor
Albergo Amici (Via Buranco, 36; % 0187-817544; www.hotelamici.it). Neither
offers much in terms of facilities, looks, or price ( 100- 130 and 105- 135,
respectively), but I'd give Marina the first go: It has a more personal feel, with the
entire family (three generations) very hands on, and the dinner—sometimes
served in the roof garden—is a very worthwhile
€€€
10 per person if you go for the
half-board option. Then again, the larger Amici has the better roof garden (replete
with lemon trees and a sea view), and is a little better maintained.
Possibly my favorite place in Monterosso is the village's oldest wine cellar,
L'Enoteca Internazionale Di Barbieri Susanna
(Via Roma, 62; % 0187-
817278). The selection on its shelves is almost overwhelming (over 1,000 labels),
so take a seat at one of the rustic timber tables outside and sample a few
( 2.50- 4 per glass). But first line your stomach with fresh bruschetta ( 3- 5);
toppings range from the simple (slices of fresh tomato with whole basil leaves and
olive oil) to the sublime (fresh anchovies marinated in lemon juice and topped
with tomato, mozzarella, capers, and oregano). This is also the ideal place to sam-
ple a good Sciacchetrà—order it with a side of bruschetta topped with
Gorgonzola and candied fruit.
5
€€ Given its small size, Monterosso has a remarkable selection of traditional
restaurants, but the hands-down winner is Ciak La Lanterna
555
(Piazza Don
Minzoni, 6; % 0187-817014). Ciak excels not only with food (a bit of a splurge,
with coperto at
11) but also atmosphere. Pick a table inside
and you'll be sandwiched among loud Italian families, around which waiters
scurry like soldier ants to serve the hungry masses.
3 and primi around
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