Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
included, every village has plenty of bar/cafes serving good cappuccino
and fresh pastries every morning, and this can entail quite a savings.)
How do I go about making reservations?
If a hotel won't respond to
your e-mails or faxes, you should phone. Sometimes proprietors have a
minimal understanding of English or—especially in the case of
affitta-
camere
—are unwilling to hold a room too far in advance (too many bad
experiences with people who don't turn up). If you don't mind traipsing
around a bit, you might want to wait till you get here: You'll ultimately
find a bed, but not the best room.
Must my room have a view?
Given the popularity of the region in high
season, it's worth booking well in advance if you want to bag a room with
a terrace and/or a sea view—and given the beauty of the sunsets and the
tiny size of most rooms, believe me, you do. Rooms with views usually cost
the same as those without, so, when reserving, always ask for a room with
a balcony and sea view, and then double-check whether this is what you'll
be getting before you hand over the cash (note also that many hoteliers
won't guarantee a sea view for, say, 1 night, in case they get a longer
booking for that particular room).
How far is it from the rail track?
Because trains run all night, light
sleepers should pick lodgings as far away from the rail tracks as possible.
Many travelers don't realize how thin the walls can be, so pack earplugs if
you're a light sleeper.
Are there discounts for paying in cash?
If you are prepared to wait till
you get here before finding a room, it's worth knowing that most people
are happy to give a cash discount of 5% to 10% (for rentals longer than
1 night, of course).
€
13). With eight or nine varieties of fish, each prepared differently, this is a great
introduction to the coast's bounty. This place is tiny, so make reservations.
€€
Both of our hotel choices (above) are within easy walking distance of
Riomaggiore's best restaurant (and one of the top five in the Cinque Terre):
Ripa del
Sole
(Via de Gasperi, 282;
%
0187-920143; www.ripadelsole.it).
It has lovely
views from its terrace, service is unpretentious, and the food is superb. Almost all
the
primi
cost a flat
€
9.50 (
coperto
€
2.50), making the choice that much more
difficult: fresh tagliatelle with lobster? gnocchi with scampi and white truffles?
pansotti
with butter and sage?
Secondi
here are an especially good value—sea bass
555
