Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Before You Book
In the past, most visitors would plan only an overnight stay in the Cinque
Terre and then very much regret that decision. Since 2000, though, the
average stay has increased to 3 nights. You'll likely want that much time,
too—it's only after sundown that the villages empty of day-trippers and
you can wander the fascinating caruggi alone, or sit in the shadows beside
the old-timers as they gossip about the day. Three nights also gives you
the opportunity to tackle two different hikes, and time to relax along the
way. Some questions to ask before booking:
What type of lodging should I seek? You'll come across three types of
accommodations in this region: hotels, B&Bs, and affittacamere (rooms for
rent). The truth is that there's no difference between the three in price (in
fact, these towns are so small that when one lodging raises or lowers a
rate, all of its neighbors tend to follow suit). And there's very little differ-
ence in terms of visitor experience. Outside of Monterosso, many of the
places that bill themselves as hotels are actually more like well-run
B&Bs—sometimes without the breakfast. Family-operated, they are per-
fectly comfortable (despite their tiny rooms) and scrupulously clean, but
with absolutely no facilities. You'll rarely have air-conditioning, a televi-
sion, or a bathtub, not to mention much space or soundproofing. Most
B&Bs are as efficiently run as these so-called hotels, but have perhaps one
or two fewer rooms. Affittacamere have much the same look, but may give
you a smidgen more privacy—they tend to be self-contained units, with
no other guest rooms in the building. Another advantage of affittacamere
is that some come with kitchenettes for no additional cost.
Standards are high at all three, but for peace of mind, always look for
the park's “Mark of Quality,” a gray stone plaque placed prominently out-
side the building. All rooms that have earned this designation are also
listed in the “Ospitalità nel Parco” booklet, found at any park outlet. Or
stick to the recommendations listed here. (Note that if breakfast is not
nautical theme and artworks by one of the Cinque Terre's most respected artists
(you'll see his murals all over Riomaggiore, in fact). Like most hotels in the
Cinque Terre, the rooms ( 90- 130), though nothing to write home about, are
functional—book one with a sea-facing terrace and the view more than makes up
for the dull decor.
Eating comes next. If seafood's your bent, there's only one place to be: right
on Riomaggiore's harbor, at La Lanterna
( % 0187-920589), where even the
pickiest seafood lover will not find fault. Primi range between
55
8 (no
coperto; tips welcome) but splurge on the seafood antipasto (small 9.50; large
6.50 and
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