Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
RIOMAGGIORE
This is arguably the most authentic of the villages, with a
strong resident Italian community that gets on with life regardless of the annual
incursion of tourists. It also seems to appeal to a younger crowd, probably because
it also has the best-value accommodations in the Cinque Terre, with a handful of
very good agents managing privately owned holiday apartments. This is the best
village in which to find a small self-catering apartment, with a
terrazzo
from
which to watch the passing parade, or a sea view to toast the sunset.
MANAROLA
Clinging to the stark gray crags above crashing breakers, Manarola
is the village most exposed to the elements. It's also more isolated than neighbor-
ing Riomaggiore, a mere 20-minute stroll away but more than double that by car.
With no natural harbor, fishing boats clutter the narrow streets, hoisted safely
away from the frothy fingers of the sea by a crane. Behind the boats are convivial
trattorie
and
ristoranti
(friendlier than in smug Vernazza), packed to the brim with
as many domestic as foreign tourists. Stroll to Punto Bonfiglio, the headland
across the harbor, for lovely views of the village, or take the bus up to Volastra, the
tiny rural hamlet set high above its seaside counterparts, and arguably the most
tranquil place to base yourself in the entire Cinque Terre (see “Accommodations
& Dining,” below, for more details).
CORNIGLIA
Perched some 100m (328 ft.) above the sea, with no harbor,
Corniglia is the oldest of the five villages, and has spectacular views. For most vis-
itors the main drawback is its location. But while it's a schlep to get up here if
you've missed the (more or less) half-hourly shuttle from the station, once you
arrive you'll enjoy the most splendid views in the region. Besides Volastra,
Corniglia is the most peaceful of the villages, with the sound of passing trains
muffled by tunnels way below. Corniglia also lays claim to the region's best beach,
the nudist Guvano (reached by following the signs from the north side of the rail-
way station;
€
3.50).
VERNAZZA
With a long harbor affording picture-perfect views of its bobbing
boats, ruined 12th-century castle, Gothic church, and dinky town square,
Vernazza is the most popular of the five villages. It's almost as pretty as Portofino,
and has seen little change in over a century. The only village with a natural har-
bor, it enjoyed a dominant position in regional trade and a natural sense of supe-
riority. Its prominence is evident in the gorgeous detailing you'll see throughout
the village, and in the high degree of civic pride. Its houses are immaculately kept,
and carefully spaced trees line the main drag and pretty harbor piazza. However,
it's totally insufferable in peak season—at least after 10:30am, when the ferry dis-
gorges its first full load of visitors, topped off every hour by the train. Thankfully
things do settle down at night: The village's day-trippers leave, and you can wan-
der its romantically lit alleyways and find a table at its harbor piazza. Some of the
best dining is to be had here, and it's worth eating here one evening, even if you're
staying elsewhere (trains run well into the night). Accommodations here comprise
a large selection of mostly tiny rooms.
MONTEROSSO AL MARE
Monterosso is more resort than village, with two
sandy beaches and a plethora of accommodations options (it has the only real
hotels in the Cinque Terre). In short, Monterosso has been entirely given over to
