Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DON'T LEAVE THE LIGURIAN
COAST WITHOUT . . .
TOASTING THE SETTING SUN WITH GOLD
The Riviera di Levante is
famous for its sunsets, and justifiably so. Not only do its sheer cliffs afford huge,
humbling views of this blazing show but they also produce one of Italy's most
delicious wines—the much-vaunted golden Sciacchetrà—a perfect match to toast
the sinking sun.
GETTING LOST IN GENOA
It's been 160 years since Charles Dickens
enthused on the wonders of losing yourself in the labyrinth of Europe's largest
preserved medieval city, but it is still enthralling. Set aside a day to explore this
fascinating honeycomb of narrow lanes, and simply wander at will.
PICNICKING IN THE PARKS
Among my most memorable meals are
Ligurian picnics, with fresh (and cheap!) ingredients culled from the delis and
focaccerie
that line the main street of every village. In Portofino, you can picnic on
stone benches in the shadow of a church; in Santa Margherita Ligure, in the gar-
dens of a 17th-century villa overlooking the sea; and in the Cinque Terre, on the
private terrace of your rented apartment or hotel.
HAVING YOUR SEAFOOD ON THE ROCKS
There's something deeply
satisfying about eating seafood while gazing into the azure depths of the sea—
especially when you're so close you can hear the breakers. Many Riviera restau-
rants offer this pleasure, but three personal favorites are
Trattoria dö Spadin
(Punta Chiappa; p. 465),
La Camogliese
(Camogli; p. 463) and
Santa Chiara
(Genoa; p. 474).
THE CINQUE TERRE NATIONAL PARK
The Cinque Terre has a long history—an amphora bearing its ancient name was
discovered in the ruins of Pompeii—but this sleepy land of gravity-defying vine-
yards and intact medieval villages catapulted into the global spotlight only after it
was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. The past decade has
brought an unprecedented growth in tourism, and the Cinque Terre (pronounced
“
chink
-weh
teh
-reh,” literally meaning “five lands”) is today one of Northern
Italy's top draws, with September bringing hordes of hikers flourishing walking
poles, while June and August find the villages jam-packed with Italian families.
Even if this is your first visit here, it's not hard to discover the reasons for
its popularity. Walk along a cliff pathway and the stupendous view of clear blue
waters will stop you in your tracks. Above and below are the terraced vineyards
that cascade like hooped petticoats down the mountains, supported by mile upon
mile of dry stone walling—a backbreaking feat that took over a millennia to
create.
Across the bay, tiny villages cling to jagged cliffs like medieval building blocks.
And when evening falls, there is still one more impressive show—the sinking sun
turns the sea into a caldron of gold.
