Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
HOTELS IN TRASTEVERE
Akin to New York's Greenwich Village in its festive atmosphere, abundant street
life, and superb restaurants, Trastevere is one of my favorite neighborhoods and
highly recommended. The downsides to a stay here involve the nighttime noise,
which can be problematic (especially if you're staying above a popular bar or restau-
rant), and the neighborhood's considerable distance from the historical center.
€€
It's amazing to find a boutique hotel room in the heart of popular Trastevere
for around €90, but
Hotel Domus Tiberina
(Via in Piscinula, 37;
%
06-5803033;
www.domustiberina.it)
doesn't come without some sacrifices. It used to be rented
by the
New York Times
correspondents, until the owners realized what a tourism
gold mine they were sitting on. Now, as a 10-room hotel, it offers a prime loca-
tion in the heart of Trastevere, just 5 minutes from the Jewish Ghetto. But the
rooms are very, very small and the service is marginal.
€€€
An option that takes you to the very edge of Trastevere, closer to the Porta
Portese Gate than the church of Santa Maria, is the
Hotel San Francesco
55
(Via Jacopa de'Settesoli, 7;
%
06-58300051; fax 06-58333413; www.hotelsan
francesco.net),
which is new to the area and will soon likely be a favorite for
return visitors. The doubles, which start at €110, are small, even by local hotel
standards, but the bathrooms are downright palatial. The San Francesco oozes
character; one of its best features is a top-floor garden that overlooks the other
terra-cotta rooftops and church bell towers of this district.
€€€
-
€€€€
The best accommodations in the heart of Trastevere are found at
the picturesque
Hotel Santa Maria
(Vicolo del Piede, 2;
%
06-5894626;
www.htlsantamaria.com).
Staying here is a little like living in Trastevere; you feel
very much part of the local scene, thanks in part to the terrific staff. The rooms
are not large, but they don't feel cramped, either. And the showers have excellent
water pressure, which is hard to find in the older parts of Rome. There is a great
courtyard where you can unwind with a glass of wine before hitting the restaurant
circuit, and the hotel coffee bar has free Internet access. At €135 to €155, this is
a bargain in Trastevere.
€€€
Finally, the
Hotel Cisterna
(Via della Cisterna, 7-9;
%
06-5817212)
has
been a standby for many travelers returning to Rome. Rooms are modestly fur-
nished with original beamed ceilings and low doors; room 57 is the largest and
room 40 has a terrace. There is a small garden with a fountain for visitors, but the
area, close to the busy Viale Trastevere, is often noisy and dusty. While the hotel
could use a few refurbishments, and it is not as nice as others in this list, it's still
a decent value at €140 a night.
HOTELS IN AVENTINE HILL
If you are actually hoping to sleep while staying in central Rome, there is perhaps
no better neighborhood than the Aventine Hill, just minutes from the Roman
Forum and Colosseum.
555
