Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
mosaic masterworks of Ravenna, but she is most likely buried in Rome, where she
died. You'll be rewarded with a glimpse of even earlier history if you follow the
stairs from behind the altar to a cryptlike room that contains what remains of a
Roman amphitheater.
THE OTHER MILAN
Unlike other Italian cities, Milan doesn't give much thought to tourism beyond
its major sights. Sure, it has a vibrant cultural scene; a busy schedule of events,
exhibitions, and trade fairs; and a fashion industry that, outside of the boutiques,
keeps itself behind closed doors and invitation-only parties. But because most of
Milan's cultural events are conducted in Italian only, they're a bit inaccessible to
the visitor who doesn't speak the language. Which brings me to the first way to
break out of the tourist mold in Milan.
Parla Italiano?
Lots of foreigners come to Milan for business reasons, many on frequent visits or
for stints of a few months or longer, so the city is better equipped than most with
language schools—especially the kinds devoted to getting you up to speed
quickly, teaching you how to get by in everyday conversation rather than muck-
ing about for weeks with obscure verb conjugations. All of these institutions offer
lengthy courses spread over many weeks or months; I'll just mention the courses
they offer that last a week or two and are thus better suited to tourists.
The
Scuola Leonardo da Vinci
(Via Darwin, 20;
%
02-83241002; www.scuola
leonardo.com)
has been teaching Italian to foreigners since 1977; 2 weeks of 40
lessons in small classes (12 people maximum) cost
280. The
International
House Milano
(Piazza Erculea, 9;
%
02-86457408; www.ihmilano.it)
offers two
levels of 2-week courses: 15 hours per week for
€
290, or 20 hours per week for
€
385. You can also get one-on-one intensive lessons for
€
44 per hour plus a
€
60
enrollment fee, though you have to sign up for a minimum of 20 hours—that
means an investment of at least
€
940.
Accademia di Italiano
(Via P. Paleocapa,
1;
%
02-87388760; www.aimilano.it)
teaches small classes (no more than six),
with an intensive 2-week course totaling 40 hours of lessons (8 hr. a day) for
€
€
305.
The
Società Dante Alighieri
(Via Napo Torrani, 10;
%
02-6692816; www.
societadantealighieri.org)
has the benefit of pedigree—it's been around since
1889—and offers one-on-one lessons from
€
35 per hour. Don't confuse that one
with the
Instituto Dante Alighieri
(Piazzale Cadorna, 9;
%
02-72011294; www.
dantealighieri.org),
which has also been around a while (established 1923); it
offers two levels of short-term courses consisting of 45-minute lessons. It's pricier
than the others, but has the benefit of some 1-week options: Semi-intensive
courses for 1 week (25 lessons;
1,160), and inten-
sive courses for 1 week (35 lessons;
€
790) or 2 weeks (70 lessons;
€
1,445). You
can also get individual tailored courses, starting at
€
635) or 2 weeks (50 lessons;
€
€
560 for 15 lessons.
Attend Mass in a Historic Church
The Milanese may worship the almighty euro Monday to Friday, and pray for bar-
gains on haute couture during Saturday-morning shopping sprees, but come
Sunday they remember that they're Italian—and Catholic—and show up for
