Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Cafes & Gelaterie
Bar Zucca/Caffè Miani (at the Duomo end of the Galleria Vittorio
Emanuele II; % 02-86464435; www.caffemiani.it; Metro: Duomo) is best
known by its original name, Il Camparino. It's the most attractive and pop-
ular of the Galleria's many bars and introduced Italy to Campari, the coun-
try's ubiquitous red cordial. You can linger at the tables set up in the
Galleria for views of the Duomo's facade, or in one of the Art Nouveau
rooms inside.
You can find organic gelato at the Gelateria Ecologica (Corso di Porta
Ticinese, 40; % 02-58101872; Metro: Sant'Ambrogio or Missori), in the
Ticinese/Navigli neighborhood. It's so popular, there's no need for a sign
out front. Strollers in the atmospheric Brera neighborhood sooner or later
stumble upon the Gelateria Toldo (Via Ponte Vetero, 9; % 02-8646-0863;
Metro: Cordusio or Lanza), where the gelato is wonderfully creamy and
many of the sorbetto selections are so fruity and fresh they seem healthy.
The Pasticceria Confetteria Cova (Via Montenapoleone, 8; % 02-
76000578; Metro: Montenapoleone) is approaching its 200th year in
refined surroundings near the similarly atmospheric Museo Poldi-Pezzoli.
It's usually filled with shoppers making the rounds in this high-fashion
district. You can enjoy a quick coffee and a brioche at the long bar, or take
a seat in one of the elegant adjoining rooms.
The Pasticceria Marchesi (Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 13; % 02-
862770; Metro: Cordusio) is a distinguished pastry shop, with an adjoin-
ing wood-panel tearoom. Because it's only steps from Santa Maria delle
Grazie, you can enjoy the old-world ambience and a cup of excellent cof-
fee (or one of the many teas and herbal infusions) as you dash off post-
cards of The Last Supper. Of course, you'll want to accompany your
beverage with one of the elegant pastries, perhaps a slice of the panet-
tone (cake laden with raisins and candied citron) that's a hallmark of
Milan. No one prepares it better than they do at Marchesi.
59) stays packed from early dinnertime until the barhopping crowd stops by for
late-night munchies. The restaurant rambles back forever, exposed copper pipes
tracing across the ceilings of rooms wrapped around shaded outdoor terraces set
with long, raucous tables. Seating is communal and service hurried, but the
wood-oven pizzas are excellent ( 6- 12). If you're hungrier, there's a long menu
of pastas and meat courses, while those with lighter appetites can enjoy a selection
of salads ( 5- 9), or cheese or salami platters made for two ( 14).
55
(Ripa di Porta Ticinese, 55, on the Naviglio Grande;
% 02-89406277; tram: 3, 15, 29, 30, or 59) has long been one of the more
Al Pont de Ferr
€€
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