Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Vino Amore
A second “must visit” for wine lovers is Oreste dal Zovo's wonderfully over-
stocked liquor store,
Enoteca dal Zovo
(Vicolo San Marco in Foro, 7;
%
045-8034369; www.enotecadalzovo.it),
operating in the former arch-
bishop's chapel since the 1950s. The walls are packed tight with booze,
and the selection of wines is overwhelming, stacked between portraits of
the city taken by Verona's very first photographer. If you're after a special
bottle, ask for
Romeo and Juliet
-inspired “Well of Love” Valpolicella
Amarone, one of the region's standouts; the well in question is just a few
steps from the bottle store. Oreste and his American-born wife, Beverly,
will also help you find rare vintages, or introduce you to some exotic-
sounding liqueurs. The last time I was there, Beverly gave me an extensive
tour of the neighborhood; if you want to get her chatting, ask to be shown
the nearby Well of Love (Il pozzo dell'Amore). Enoteca dal Zovo is open
daily 8am to 1pm and 2 to 8:30pm, and until 9pm over weekends; pop in
around 5pm for a glass of wine.
€€
-
€€€
If you're interested in wine (drinking it, or even getting into heavy
discussions about it), an evening at
Antica Bottega del Vino
55
(Via Scudo di
Francia, 3;
%
045-8004535; www.bottegavini.it; Wed-Mon)
should be a priority,
even if it means going hungry for the next few days! You may be familiar with the
branch that opened in New York in 2004—well, here's the original, which the
Barzan family has been operating for almost 20 years. One thing you won't find
on the NYC menu is horse meat
(pastissada di cavallo con polenta),
simply pre-
pared with lemon and oil, and served with polenta, in the tradition of the region.
Don't worry, though, there's plenty else to savor on the (moderately priced) menu,
including bean soup
(pasta e fasoi),
tripe with Parmesan, sea bass with balsamic
vinegar and rosemary, and green potato dumplings with pecorino cheese sauce;
steaks here are also excellent and Florentine sirloin is served by weight. Ultimately,
it's the ambience and selection of over 3,400 varieties of wine that draw the reg-
ular clientele (and the regular awards from
Wine Spectator
magazine). The tables
are dominated by large wine goblets, and everywhere you look are tempting bot-
tles of wine, champagne, and vinegar urging you to blow your budget; recom-
mended bottles are chalked up on the board behind the bar counter. If you're
looking to buy wine to take home with you, you can also visit the bottle store
right next door, La Bottega della Bottega.
WHY YOU'RE HERE: THE TOP SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS
Verona's cobblestone streets, ancient Roman and Renaissance monuments, and
romantic air, make it ideal for relaxed exploration. Specific sights are fairly spread
out, but the strolls between them—most are located at the Piazza delle Erbe and
over the Adige River, and close to the Arena amphitheater—are terrifically
pleasant.
