Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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Disguised as a house of worship,
San Matteo Church
(Vicolo del Guasto,
4;
%
045-8004538; Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm and 6:30pm-12:30am)
has been con-
verted into a very affordable, atmospheric pizzeria (a basic marinara costs just
€
4). Situated down a quiet alleyway, off Corsà Porta Borsari, it's perfect for a
quick meal, or one accompanied by plenty of wine.
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Just meters from the Arena, there are excellent pizzas to be had at
Le Cantine
de L'Arena
(Piazzetta Scalette Rubiani, 1;
%
045-8032849),
which feels a bit
like someone's eat-in kitchen, though it's dominated by a large, brick pizza oven
stacked with bread boards and ham-shaving equipment. On one wall, a pair of
frescoed cherubs seems to be cleaning the teeth of a crocodile. Pasta specials (for
around
5
7.50) are chalked up on the board, but you should go for the pizzas which
are among the best in town. On my last visit, I ordered a particularly scrumptious
one called “Baito,” piled full of Veronese cheese, fleshy boletus mushrooms, and
mozzarella. The more adventurous can order pizza with horse meat (accompanied
by arugula and Parmesan). Beneath the main dining room, an excavated space has
been transformed into a beautiful underground cantina with archways and vaulted
ceilings; in winter, it becomes the ideal setting for a hearty meal of grilled meat.
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Locals looking to introduce their foreign friends to the pleasures of authen-
tic regional dining tend to head for
Osteria al Duca
55
(Via Arche Scaligeri, 2;
%
045-594474; closed Dec 24-Jan 7),
a quaint family restaurant right across the
way from the Scaligeri tombs. The restaurant is said to occupy part of what was
once Romeo's family home, a 13th-century palace that was originally owned by
the Della Scalas. Here, you're waited on by the family women; decked out in
black, they squabble among themselves while clutching their notepads and trying
hard to explain the menu in well-enunciated Italian. The homey vibe is main-
tained by the casual layout—diners share tables, and the family dog (a white
Labrador) cruises about looking for a spot to nap. Try to arrive before 7:30pm, as
it fills up quickly. Young Alessandro, whose family operates this lively eatery,
explains that the food's authenticity is maintained by the firm grip his 70-year-old
grandmother keeps in the kitchen. You'll recognize that local and regional special-
ties are the order of the day by the availability of horse-meat steak, horse tartar,
horse prepared with Parmesan and rocket, and spaghetti served with donkey
meat. But even simpler dishes, like the rich, creamy penne Romeo, which I had
recently, are lovely; my pasta was rich with Gorgonzola cheese and sliced zucchini,
and I finished off with a decadent portion of homemade tiramisu, which worked
out to a very filling meal for just
€
10.
€€
Off a small courtyard square shared with a number of trendy shops, another
of my favorite eateries in Verona is family-run
Ristorante Greppia
55
(Vicolo
Samaritana, 3;
%
045-8004577; www.ristorantegreppia.com; Tues-Sun),
which
has specialized in Veronese cuisine for 30 years and maintains a sterling reputa-
tion throughout the city. Apparently, the secret lies in the traditional homemade
pasta prepared by the family matriarchs. In winter, spring, and fall you can order
“trolley meat”
(bollito misto con salse),
which is cut for you at your table and
then prepared to suit your tastes. Among the selection of steaks, the
osso buco
is
particularly wonderful, prepared in a local vegetable sauce and served with
polenta. The only downside here? A
€
3 cover.
