Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
you're here for several days and would prefer to keep a lid on that budget, make
sure you've got your Hostelling International membership card and follow the yel-
low signs. Dorm rooms are spartan, and there are slightly more expensive family
rooms, which you can book in advance. Despite the hike to the hostel, the hill-
side neighborhood is rather quaint, and the hostel has a lovely garden (something
you won't find in most hotels in town). The major drawback is that you won't be
able to access your room between 9am and 5pm, and you'll need to wait until
reception opens at 5pm before you can check in. There's also an 11:30pm curfew,
which is only relaxed for ticket holders during the opera season. The bed-and-
breakfast rate is
€
16 per person,
€
19 per person in a family room.
A Camping Site Overlooking the City
€
On a hillside overlooking the city is the seasonal camping site,
Campeggio
Castel San Pietro
(Via Castel San Pietro, 2;
%
045-592037; www.campingcastel
sanpietro.com).
Sheltered by trees, its site is charming, if a little cluttered in
appearance (owing to its popularity); there are terraced areas for dining and for
relaxing or soaking up the sun. Rates are very reasonable:
8 per tent and
€
6 per adult (
€
4 for children under 8). There's a further charge of
€
3.50 per
motor car and
€
6 to
€
2 if you arrive on a motorbike. Tents are available for rental for
those not carrying their own. To get there from the station, catch bus no. 41 or
95, and ask the driver where you should disembark; you'll have some walking (up
a rather steep hill) to do before you arrive at the site, but once you do you can let
your hair down. The campsite is operational from mid-May until mid-October.
DINING FOR ALL TASTES
There are many cafes throughout the center, and the area around the Arena is
constantly abuzz with people-watching coffee-drinkers. It's really worth getting
away from the most obvious spots to find charming
trattorie
hidden down quieter
back streets; the selection below caters to most tastes, and allows you to get some
idea of the peculiarities of local cuisine—especially the affection for horse and
donkey meat.
€
€
-
€€
A particularly relaxed and pleasant cafe,
Al Ponte
(Via Ponte Pietra;
%
045-569608; Thurs-Tues till late),
is named for the fact that it sits right on the
edge of the River Aldige, and tables in the small terrace courtyard afford views of
Ponte Pietra and Castel San Pietro. It's nothing sophisticated but has an extensive
menu with light meals like panini,
tramazzini,
and a selection of salads.
€
-
€€
Another spot that's great for lunch—especially for vegetarians—is
Caffè
Coloniale
(Piazza Viviani, 14C;
%
045-8012647),
where you can grab a table on
the pleasant roadside courtyard just around the corner from Casa di Giulietta. It's
the type of place where subversive rebels wearing T-shirts bearing slogans like “Kill
All Artists” hang out while ordering salads and super-strong espresso. I can rec-
ommend the Campestre salad—sliced apple, bacon, and huge chunks of
Stracchino cheese, and drizzled with “healing” vinegar. Great warm vegetarian
dishes (like aubergine baked with Parmesan cheese) and a selection of pizzas (try
the red chicory) are also available.
