Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
DON'T LEAVE VERONA WITHOUT . . .
ACTING OUT YOUR OWN VERSION OF THE BARD'S ROMANTIC
PLAY
Romantic strolls through the cobblestone streets and squares of Verona
will evoke Shakespeare's star-crossed lovers, Romeo and Juliet. Wander around the
oldest parts of the city, and you'll discover a city that beautifully combines historic
heritage with contemporary prosperity; head for the
Piazza delle Erbe
(p. 364)
and wend your way through, around, and under the remarkable buildings, stat-
ues, and archways left by the powerful Scaligeri clan who once ruled here.
SEEING AN OPERA
It's easily one of the grandest opera experiences on earth;
massive outdoor extravaganzas played out in the 2,000-year-old
Arena
(p. 367),
where gladiators once tore each other to pieces. Nowadays, the only uncivilized
torture you'll witness happens to those spectators who've forgotten to bring a
cushion. Most of the seating at the Arena is on the same cold, hard stone used
centuries ago. Take something soft to sit on or be prepared to suffer: Operas are
nothing short of 3 hours long.
TAKING IN 1,000 YEARS' WORTH OF ART
The
Museo Castelvecchio
(p. 368) is housed in a castle on the banks of the River Adige and is stuffed full
of artwork from across the ages. How better to discover the who and how of
Bellini, Carpacchio, Tintoretto, and Veronese—without the hassle of the crowds
that heave through Venice's brilliant museums?
LEARNING ABOUT LOCAL WINES FROM A MASTER
Visit the tiny,
cluttered
Enoteca dal Zovo
(p. 363) and you'll not only get to taste a selection of
regional vintages, but you can also chat for hours with Oreste dal Zovo. He will
introduce you to some romantic legends, most notably that of the Well of Love,
which has inspired an impressive wine label that you can purchase here.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF VERONA
As suggested by the city's vast public Arena and superb collection of excavated
ruins, Verona was a Roman stronghold, first occupied in 89
B
.
C
. Its favorable posi-
tion at the mouth of the Adige River made it a popular conquest, and it drew con-
sistent attention from various Italian and Mitteleuropa invaders once the Roman
empire fell. Verona's very own Della Scala (or Scaligeri) family put an end to the
invasions when it came to power in the 13th century, holding considerable sway
in Northern Italy. Much like the Medicis in Florence, this despotic family ruled
Verona harshly, but at the same time beautified it immensely. They also forced the
citizenry to pay taxes for expanding their miniature empire, and imported some
of the region's best artists and architects. The Scaligeris were important patrons of
the poet Dante.
The Della Scalas remained in power until 1387, when Milan's Viscontis took
over briefly. In 1404, Verona fell into the welcome embrace of La Serenissima;
Venice was developing its inland empire, and Verona happily remained under
Venetian rule until 1797, when Napoleon got his claws into much of Europe.
Later, in 1814, Verona—along with the whole of the Veneto—became part of
Austria and only shook off foreign rulers when it joined the Kingdom of Italy in
