Venice - Italy - page 335

Rialto markets, I like to stop off at Muro

(San Polo 222; % 041-5237495;
Mon-Sat), on the relaxed Campo Bella Vienna; this small, slightly trendy wine bar
has a few tables outside and a chic upstairs restaurant serving tasty but pricey
dishes like filleted turbot cooked with leek in white wine, butter, and thyme.
Drawn by the relaxing lounge music, I soon find myself sipping spritz at the bar
(topped by olives and other snacks) and ordering olive-oil-infused cicchetti
( € 1.30- € 2) as an attractive alternative to a sit-down lunch. At night, a mixed,
vibrant crowd often gathers outside with a glass of wine; if you're lucky you may
be entertained by a small jazz group that sometimes keeps the party going till rel-
atively late.
A similarly classy wine bar is Enoteca Vinus Venezia

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(Calle del Scaleter,
Dorsoduro 3961; % 041-715004; 10am-midnight), situated between Campo San
Margherita and Campo dei Frari. You'll recognize it by the heap of corks displayed
in the window. There's a small selection of glistening cicchetti, and bottles of wine
are set in smart cherrywood racks behind the ebony stone-bar counter. There,
Ricky, the smooth-talking barman, prefers nothing better than to fill up your gob-
let with a sought-after vintage from the Veneto (count on paying € 2.50- € 5 per
glass); he'll gladly make a recommendation or let you taste a vintage if you're
stumped for a choice. I get very comfortable at this bar, soothed by strains of gen-
tle jazz music, and often notice that I'm the only non-Italian, amid a very well-
behaved, sophisticated crowd.
For a slightly more formal atmosphere, you'll want to head over to nearby
Campo della Guerra, and Cavatappi

(San Marco 525/526; % 041-2960252),
an attractive wine bar with small kitchen; there are cheese-and-wine tastings and
occasional jazz performances; also see “Dining for All Tastes,” earlier in this chap-
ter. Another contemporary-style drinking venue, best for a large glass of white
wine, is the shimmering oval counter of the Bacaro Lounge Bar

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(Salizzada San
Moisè, San Marco 1348; % 041-2960687; daily 10am-2am), behind the Libreria
Mondadori bookstore in “San Marco Space.” Or try the Impronta Café

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(Calle
dei Preti Dorsoduro 3815-3817; % 041-2750386), where Paduan-born owner
Massimo serves wine by the glass ( € 2- € 4) or by the bottle; you can order from
a selection of panini, salads, and affordable primi meals. The vibe here is funky;
lounge tunes, stylish contemporary furniture, and large blackboards with chalked-
up wine lists remind you that it's still brand new.
If you prefer a student crowd, head over to Campo San Margherita

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; it's a
veritable hotbed for youthful hormones, and the square seems constantly to be in
motion. A number of the best resto-pubs here offer agreeable, fairly affordable
menus, with portions that are usually generous. Billing itself as a “restaurant
and champagne lounge,” Orange

(Campo Santa Margherita 3054/A; % 041-
5234740; www.orangebar.it; daily until 2am) is a friendly spot to sit and watch the
action on the square unravel. Here, the bar staff, with their tongue-in-cheek
Mafioso T-shirts, mix generous cocktails and head-spinning spritz concoctions; or
you can choose from 60 different Italian wines, and another 20 imported vari-
eties. In 2005, Orange opened its public rooftop terrace, which means that you
can enjoy open-air dining while looking down on the square. Try the oysters and
raw swordfish for something extravagant, or a good old-fashioned burger.
Across the way from Orange is Margaret Duchamp (Santa Margherita, Dorsoduro
3019; % 041-5286255), which may not be quite as chic, but certainly attracts its

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