Venice - Italy - page 331

a tent in summer directly in front of the train station, to display all manner of
coffee-table books and academic works dealing with different aspects of Venetian
life, culture, architecture, and art; come browsing here first for huge savings.
GLASSWARE & HANDICRAFTS
On the island of Giudecca, a restored 15th-century convent has become a center
for Venetian artisans, who have banded together to establish a Venetian craft lab-
oratory, SS. Cosma e Damiano (Giudecca 621/B-17). Here, you can see black-
smiths, glassblowers, and paper- and mask-makers in action, and possibly
negotiate a good deal directly from the artist. The center also hosts fine artists, and
there are plans to have an in-house theater association. For information, contact
Ljupka Deleva, one of the resident artists ( % 348-01055823).
For upmarket goods at a sensible price, Marina e Susanna Sent (Campo San
Vio, Dorsoduro 669; % 041-5200205; closed Tues and Sun in winter) is a fab bou-
tique with classy, contemporary Murano glass sculptures and vases, colorful
leather handbags, and unique glass jewelry.
Crossing the Rialto Bridge can drive you crazy if you encounter slow-moving
hordes of tourists unable to decide in which direction to move; but there's one
reason to make a point of stopping here—a visit to Rivoaltus Legatoria (Ponte di
Rialto 11; % 041-5236195; daily 10am-7:30pm). This is Venice's original hand-
bound leather-journal and book emporium, which owes its success as much
to superior craftsmanship as it does to Wanda and Giorgio Scarpa, the dutiful
husband-and-wife team who've been here since the 1970s. Pick up a ready-made
notebook or photo album for those special Venetian memories, or have that extra-
special journal made-to-order.
Ebrû, on Campo Santo Stefano (San Marco 3471; % 041-5238830; www.
albertovalese-ebru.com), sells handcrafted marbled paper and original Venetian
silks; it's well worth a visit for that more refined gift.
Ketty Parma is a young artist who, for nearly a decade, has been an innovator
in traditional Venetian painting techniques. Her mosaics—made with handmade
glass from Orsoni in the Ghetto—are stunning. Pay a visit to Ketty's small shop,
simply for a taste of what it means to be an honest, hard-working artist in Venice;
it's called Alice Fine Arts Gallery 2 (Salizzada S. Antonin, Castello 3541/A;
% 041-5206790), and is an offshoot of her family's other gallery, Alice in
Wonderland (Via Garibaldi, Castello 1639; % 041-5287616; www.alicefinearts.
com). Besides her own artwork, Ketty stocks authentic Murano glassware by
Orlando Zonara, a 73-year-old glassmaker whose experience in the craft makes
his work worth looking out for.
Just a few meters from the Guggenheim is Dimitri Giannina and Ruth M.
Scheibler's hic mosaico (San Vio, Dorsoduro 717; www.hicmosaico.com; Thurs-Tues
9am-1pm and 2-7pm), a fascinating gallery of all things mosaic; there's even a
selection of jewelry.
MASKS, COSTUMES & CLOTHING
Right near Campo dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo is Laboratorio Artigiano Maschere
(Calle Barbaria delle Tole, Castello 6657; % 041-5223110); working here is Giorgio
Clanetti, one of several major figures responsible for reviving the Venetian art of
mask-making.