Venice - Italy - page 329

tool. The group spends mornings in the squero, while afternoons are devoted to
visits around the city that further enhance visitors' appreciation of what makes
Venice tick. You get to see the city's attractions in a whole new light, and meet
artisans working on gondola-related crafts. This is a surefire way to feel less like
an observer of Venetian culture, and more like someone who's actively involved.
The bad news is that courses at the Squero Canaletto are infrequent and limited
to 12 participants; this means doing some serious planning for your Venice trip.
Contact Thom through his website (www.squero.com), or call when you're in
town ( % 041-2413963).
Finally, if you'd prefer something a little less physical, you might want to con-
sider learning one of Venice's popular crafts. At Ebrû, on Campo Santo Stefano
(San Marco 3471; % 041-5238830; www.albertovalese-ebru.com), you can attend
a variety of classes in marble-paper production, presented by the shop's owner,
Alberto Valese. Paper-marbling is a technique that came to Venice from Persia via
Turkey over 400 years ago; it involves creating elaborate, colorful motifs that imi-
tate the veins in marble or stone in order to create a decorative effect on paper.
Valese has been practicing this craft for decades and has exhibited around the
world; classes take place at his home in Castello, accompanied by snacks and wine.
A 3-hour introductory course costs

€

100. Weeklong intensive courses cost

€

350.

SHOPPING
Venice is wondrously overpriced. Everywhere you turn, some delightful item is
available for purchase, and nine times out of ten, the price tag will be well over
the normal market value. Retain your sanity by seeking out only those items that
can't be found in any other city. When it comes to classic, quality goods like one-
of-a-kind Murano glassware or a custom-made leather-bound book, then and
only then should you open your wallet or purse. There's a great deal of craftsman-
ship worth investing in, but you'd best be on your toes.
The key to finding a good deal in Venice is to shop where tourists are not
expected. If you can find an off-the-beaten-track shop in this city, the chances are
you'll strike a bargain.
Venice's original markets are those of the Rialto, operating for over 1,000
years, and selling fresh produce and fish. While the fish market closes early, the
numerous stalls vying for the tourist trade remain open all day; avoid these. You
should also avoid spending your money anywhere in the vicinity of St. Mark's
Square; browse if you must, but be warned that prices are high, and quality is
largely dubious.

Fun Stores
Shopping really shouldn't be a chore, but in tourist-infested areas, it's easy to
become jaded by the profusion of junk on offer as “unique” or “arty.” To enjoy
shopping here, tone down your expectations and indulge your more playful side,
by taking time to appreciate the unusual, the unexpected, and the downright silly,
bearing in mind that you need not buy anything at all.