Venice - Italy - page 323

Church-Hopping
Avid church enthusiasts should purchase a Chorus Pass ( % 041-2750462;
www.chorusvenezia.org) admitting them to a large number of Venetian
churches for € 9 per adult (card-holding students under 30 pay € 6). This
brings about significant savings when you consider that each church usu-
ally charges € 2.50 for entry. Note, however, that a few important churches
do not participate, so consider carefully before buying a pass; the 15
churches covered by the pass are Santa Maria del Giglio, Sant Stefano,
Santa Maria Formosa, Santa Maria dei Miracoli, San Giovanni Elemosinario,
San Polo, Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, San Giacomo dall'Orio, San Stae,
Sant'Alvise, Madonna dell-Orto, San Pietro di Castello, Santissimo
Redentore, Santa Maria del Rosario (Gesuati), and San Sebastiano. With
the exception of the Frari, all of these are closed to the general public on
Sundays during July and August.
It's easy to forget that beautiful churches are actually active sites of
worship. If you'd like a more profound understanding of the relationship
between Venetian churches and the city's cultural and artistic heritage, the
Chorus Association provides that through thought-provoking guided visits
to some of the major houses of worship; these take place on different days
of the week, depending on the church. Choose between the Frari (Mon
11:30am), San Polo (Wed 11:30am), San Sebastiano (Thurs 2:30pm), and
a combined tour of Santa Maria Miracoli and Santa Maria Formosa (Fri
11:30am). Tours cost € 8, excluding the price of admission to the church
(usually € 2.50); they only operate March through June and September
through December. To reserve, call % 041-2424 before 5pm on the day
before your intended visit; and be sure to stipulate an English-language
tour.

One building definitely worth visiting is Palladio's other Giudecca church,
Il Redentore (Campo del Redentore; % 041-2750642; € 2.50; Mon-Sat 10am-5pm,
Sun 1-5pm), commissioned to celebrate the end of the plague that struck Venice
in 1575. The church, with its massive dome and classical facade topped by statu-
ary figures that seem always to be giving thanks, is the most prominent building
on the island.
ATTRACTIONS IN CASTELLO
After pushing through the tourist throngs of St. Mark's Square, you may find a
stroll along Castello's Riva degli Schiavoni

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to be restorative. Passing a num-
ber of remarkable palazzi (now mostly expensive hotels) on your left, and the
lagoon with its boat traffic and nearby islands on the right, you can walk as far as
the Giardini Pubblici, where Venetians go to relax on the grass or find shade
under the trees; there are always children occupying the playground. It's here that
one of Venice's major international art events, the Biennale

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, erects the