Venice - Italy - page 301

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Across the canal from Dorsoduro is the island of Giudecca. On its south
side, amid the boatyards, is a pleasant, low-key restaurant in the upstairs portion
of a warehouse, called Mistrà (Fondamenta Ponte Lungo, Giudecca 212/A; % 041-
5220743; Wed-Mon noon-3:30pm, Wed-Sun 7:30-10:30pm), which is valued as
much for its views over the lagoon as for its seafood, including sarde in saor and
baccalà mantecato. Generally unknown to tourists, this is a place for dining among
the locals, many of them shipbuilders and gondola makers.
WHY YOU'RE HERE: THE TOP
SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS
The major problem on a visit to Venice is running out of time. Even long-time
residents will claim that there is always something more to see that they have

Venice Itineraries

If you have only 1 day in Venice
The quickest, cheapest, and most convenient way to see a lot of Venice is
to hop on a vaporetto and do the entire stretch of the Grand Canal; you'll
see most of the city's finest palazzi and get a sense of life along the arte-
rial highway. Start your day by boarding the boat at the train or bus sta-
tion and heading in the direction of St. Mark's Square. Jump off at Rialto,
and cross the bridge to visit the early-morning fish markets. You should still
have enough time on your ticket to continue with the vaporetto as far as
St. Mark's Square. Take the elevator to the top of the Campanile to scan the
city, before heading back to terra firma and taking in the Basilica and the
Palazzo Ducale. If possible, you should book in advance one of the Secret
Itineraries tours, which is the best way to see the Doge's Palace and learn
a great deal about the city (see “The Secret Life of the Doges” below).
Then venture over to Dorsoduro, picking your way past the Teatro la Fenice
and heading over the Accademia Bridge. Explore the Accademia Gallery for
an overview of Venetian art. If you've got enough time, head back to St.
Mark's Square and wander along Riva degli Schiavoni, stopping to admire
the Bridge of Sighs, and enjoying the non-stop activity on the lagoon.
If you have only 2 days in Venice
If you don't have to rush through the city in a single day, try to schedule
a performance at Teatro la Fenice on your 1 night in town, and save the
Accademia for a combined tour to the nearby Peggy Guggenheim Collection
on the second day. Then, since it's nearby, pop into the Salute church.
From here you can catch a vaporetto to the San Tomà stop, getting off to
visit the Scuole Grand San Rocco and nearby Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari.
Try to leave time for simply wandering through the streets and idling in
the campi; Santa Margherita Square is particularly lively, often busy with
antiques markets and impromptu street performances.